Ripperbad

2011 Mazda 3 Sport 2.0L: very gradual loss of coldness in the system over about a year period, and now it began blowing warm air. Today, as it was blowing warm (5m of driving), I heard a 2 second sort of 'hiss' noise, sort of like pressure being built up or released, and this is exactly when cold air returned.

Even while it's blowing warm, the car 'bogs down' as it normally does when it is blowing cold, so with this I would think no issues with the compressor.. Hopefully this is enough info to get me pointed in the right direction. Thanks guys!

I have an existing map with 1,500+ billboard trees, which are X-shaped, each face being rectangular.
The game engine does not do well with so much fully transparent faces overlapping each other and performance plummets - the solution of cutting out the dead-space in the faces of the trees has proven to work well. I have done this with Y-Shaped trees by 'Separating by Loose Parts' and then Linking the Object Data of the Optimized mesh to the other Y-shaped meshes.

Problem with these X-shaped meshes is when Separating by Loose Parts, each tree is split into two objects, when it needs to be one joined object consisting of the two rectangular faces.

I considered a work-around: subdividing th

Hi all, first post here. I am trying to optimize a forest scene by reducing the amount of overlapping transparent planes which eats a lot of performance. I have done this with another group of trees (Y-shape) by re-shaping the planes and cutting out excess dead space. This process involved separating all trees to their own object and Linking Object Data (see pic#1) to copy over the optimized mesh.

https://preview.redd.it/0bqn9iy1p7qf1.png?width=741&format=png&auto=webp&s=19a2ffa4f185c2c5c5ca5e46175f67d51c67c2e9

The problem I am having now is that this process won't work with my other group of trees as instead of being Y-shaped, they are X-shaped which, when Separating by Loose Parts, the t

I am an apprentice in a union that requires us to take training at the hall before we can receive pay increases when we change terms (2nd year to 3rd year, etc). I have had no issues obtaining a seat to get the previous 3 levels/weekends of training. The course I am required to take has been offered to me three times in the last couple years. A letter is sent out each time to all the apprentices needing the course and we have to call in to book our spot - first come first served. I was unsuccessful in calling in fast enough in order to secure a spot for all 3 offer letters thus far - the 3rd training opportunity scheduled to happen in a week's time. I was also scheduled to switch terms and

Hey all - this dead MSI GTX 1070 Aero (Couple reference photos here: https://imgur.com/a/kgrSRRt ) had a blown mosfet on the PEX8_12V rail, as well as these 3 shorted capacitors connected to U19 (INA3221, shunt/bus voltage regulator). I'm relatively new to electronics repair so I was confused when each of these three caps were reading resistances of 41 ohms each. Each cap is connected to two of their own 20ohm resistors (in series), which connects to its own pins on U19, as well as their own 665k ohm resistor. I may just be interpretting the boardview incorrectly, but it seems to me that since the negative/ground side of electrolytic capacitor C276 is connect

I've somehow caused my G29 wheel to become quite difficult to turn (after re-greasing the motor bearings for a 2nd time trying to fix the bearings from squealing). It's possible some q-tip fibers got caught in the bearing(s)... All other functions are normal besides wheel being hard to turn and lack of FFB (Bumps/crashes aren't felt at all when driving).

Nevertheless, I've been searching high and low on the internet for a motor replacement, preferably a 555sh 15260 12-28v DC motor - But if anyone has a link or information about a suitable replacement - I'd be forever grateful ! Of course, if you have a wheel for parts where the motors were known to be good, I'd consider purchasing t

I've somehow caused my G29 wheel to become quite difficult to turn (after re-greasing the motor bearings for a 2nd time trying to fix the bearings from squealing). It's possible some q-tip fibers got caught somewhere...

Nevertheless, I've been searching high and low on the internet for a motor replacement, preferably a 555sh 15260 12-28v DC motor - But if anyone has a link or information about a suitable replacement - I'd be forever grateful ! Of course, if you have a wheel for parts where the motors were known to be good, I'd consider purchasing them from you.

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Thanks!!

First photo: https://i.imgur.com/zu9lUX1.jpg

Second photo (closer but with motion blur): https://i.imgur.com/DyPMuJW.jpg

So far thinking along the lines of a Hyundai Santa Fe (Minus the 120 degree angle on the inner headlight), or a Volvo XC90 (Seems suspect vehicle has horizontal grill grates and more chrome plating on bottom 'mouth').

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From the Hamilton Police Service's website:

"On October 23, 2019, the male victim involved in a Fail to Remain has succumbed to his injuries making this the 6th pedestrian death in 2019. The victim's family does not wish to release his name.

On Friday, September 20, 2019,

So I purchased these three authentic Aspire tanks roughly 3 years ago and have started to notice recently that two of the tanks aren't producing a consistent throat hit using authentic 1.8 ohm BVC coils.

Flavour seems decent, a little muted maybe, and I'm getting good vapor production. No burnt hits. The issue is throat hit. It's nearly non-existent. All my juices are 6mg. Mostly 80pg/20vg.

I think this is a wicking issue, as I've noticed that if I block the air hole and pull to help prime the wick, the throat hit comes right back... But only to completely disappear after one or two pulls.

I've discovered that the coils are not the issue, as I have no issues if I throw the same non-TH-pro