I have a year remaining on my fix before I'll have to renew. I'd like to look into moving into a new property before then, and porting that mortgage over (so not borrow any extra) but also add some savings to get somewhere bigger.
I've had to go part time at work and take a 20% pay cut recently due to financial difficulties within the company, these may resolve and I'll go back up to full time, or it may end in redundancy in a few months.
I want to know whether I'd be even able to port the mortgage over considering my current situation, or whether the only option is to continue on exactly as I am?
We had issues with the roof and chimney flashings causing damp that were fixed about 4 years ago by professionals. Since then one of the walls against the chimney breast was suffering from major efflorescence, and was maxing out the moisture meter, the plaster was pretty trashed so I finally got round to removing it. My intention is to insulate the walls with a layer of ProofTherm followed by wood fibre boards and lime plaster. The property was built around 1890, and converted into flats in the 1990's so as I understand it the walls need to be allowed to breathe. This is the top floor of the building.
Now that the plaster is off there's a very obvious smell of damp and I can't t
Hello in the process of trying to insulate a room in a flat which is consistently colder than any other room. It includes this vent to a chimney breast. Are there any options for reducing heat loss through this? I know you can get heat exchangers but they all seem to be systems for entire properties involving lots of ducting between rooms as opposed to just dealing with a single vent.
I've been using IPAdapter (FaceID Plus V2 SD15) with an img2img approach masked to the face area only. I find that I get much more accurate results when working with an image that is a body shot as opposed to a tight closeup of the face. The image quality is fine in both, but the likeness come through better when it's a small portion of the whole image.
Can anyone explain to me why this is? It seems I should be able to reach the same results when the image is only a headshot. Also if this is better posted in a different subgroup please let me know.
This exterior wall took some water damage the other year when the roof had a leak. This has since been fixed but the plaster is in a state. it was also prone to having large visible cold spots appear in the colder months.
The square section with the mould was a single piece of wallpaper which has been removed. The plaster was painted with a damp stopping paint which has bubbled and cracked off in a number of places. The house was build around 1890, and converted into flats years later. I don't believe the plaster to be lime from a fizz test and in some areas does have a pinkish hue associated with gypsum. Though the advice for single skin properties of this age is that the walls need
I recently worked out how to access by toilets hidden cistern and tried to increase the flush power. I seem to have an old Grohe model (older than the one you'd find if you checked Youtube for GROHE Rapid SL which has a square section near the bottom where mine is round)
I turned the red dial in the photo (of my actual system) all the way to the right, and the parts generally seemed to move okay, but on re-assembly the flush was exactly the same.
Can anyone suggest what the issue might be?
Or if I were to purchase a new one would it fit inside the same space? The current one slots on to the red catch shown in the second picture so I'm not sure how easy it is to simply replace th
Has anyone got any experience with the rubber soles available on lots of dance shoes at the moment? Bleyer (http://bleyershoes.com) for example has a choice of "new style cell rubber", spin spot, EVA or suede. Would obviously be nice if you knew the soles wouldn't get messed up if they get wet or you stepped outside briefly, but only if they still perform well on the dance floor.
