aeflash

Just finished a 900 mile road trip in my 2026 bZ XLE plus. I heard EV road trips suck, so I wanted to see how bad it actually was. This was round trip from the SF Bay Area to Anaheim.

• The hotel stop on the way down had free overnight L2 charging! However, I forgot to turn off the charging schedule so it only got me up to 67%, rather than 100. No big deal, just one more DC fast charger stop.
• ABRP is essential for planning routes. Just set your destination and SoC and it will figure it out. However, it assumes you're speedrunning travel and you don't run into any issues finding a stall, with the various apps, or getting charging to start. I'd pick the "fewer stops" preset rather than "opt

I was having my wiring and breakers looked at in preparation for an electric rang., The electrician recommended attaching the range directly to my house's wiring vs using a NEMA 14-50 plug because using a plug "loses 8 amps". What does he mean? It can't be power loss or voltage drop because that'd be almost 2kW at 240V, which doesn't sound right.

Does it work?

I have a 3 week old Litter Robot 4, and now that the cat is finally using it, it's now stuck flashing yellow and refuses to cycle. I've already gone through their troubleshooter, reseating the bonnet, cleaning the sensor area, but it's still stuck flashing yellow. A new bonnet is on its way, but seeing as it's a floppy piece of plastic, I can foresee it being hard to get the tolerances right to satisfy the sensor, this will be a common problem.

Is there a way to disable the bonnet sensor, so I don't have to worry about it? It doesn't seem like something essential to the functioning of the device.

I recently bought a bra for my partner, the first new bra she'd had in a while. It was 36A, like her old bras. The band was too tight, even on the last hook, so I returned it trying to exchange for a 38A.

However, the company doesn't make 38A, so they refunded me. Searching for it brought me to posts on this subreddit taking about how that size isn't really much a thing.

So we measured with a cord and tape measure and used the calculator here and it spat out 34C! She was incredulous! She'd always thought she was an A cup. Also, why was it recommending a smaller band when 36 was too tight?

Does this make sense? A bra a band size down and 2 cup sizes up will fit better?

Input measurements

I have a gas furnace that is basically end-of-life, and am looking in to replacing it with a heat pump system which will give us both heating and cooling. I'm trying to decide on whether to go with a unit that fits in the same place as the furnace and use the existing ducts, or go ductless with mini splits in each room.

Currently, the ducts only go to the upstairs, the downstairs was only finished relatively recently and has no vents. I'm also not too happy with the vent layout overall, it struggles to keep the living room warm. But plopping an exchanger in place of the furnace would be pretty straightforward, I presume. (and perhaps cheaper?)

Mini splits in each room would give us fine

My LG washer came with a 1 year warranty, but now that it is almost expired, I got a mailer offering to extend the warranty for another 3 years for $150. Is it worth it?

By my reasoning, it'd be worth it if there's a significant chance the washer would need an expensive repair or replacement in the next 3 years. Does this seem reasonable for an LG washer?

My LG washer came with a 1 year warranty, but now that it is almost expired, I got a mailer offering to extend the warranty for another 3 years for $150. Is it worth it?

By my calculations, it'd be worth it if there's a greater than 15% chance the washer breaks down and needs replacing in the next 3 years, or a >30% chance it needs a repair costing $500. (i.e. 15% x $1000 = $150, 30% x $500 = $150) Does this seem reasonable for an LG washer?