andre2142

A friend of mine has a 15' Juke, and recently got the an evap code 0456, cool not a big deal, just a small leak, common code.

Unfortunately, I couldn't help at the time as I was traveling so told her to take it to a shop since its a common problem and figured it wouldn't be much. BUT holy **** they did a bunch of unrelated stuff and not even fix the issue, according to the invoice here:

They did:

• A "tune-up" coils/plugs/air filter/compression?/: $644
• Temp sensor & housing: $408
• Finally, a smoke test: $130
• Plus labor and all came about $1300

Now they have quoted her more to finally do the evap stuff (in pen o

I'm getting ready to pay my entire loan off but I was wondering if I could profit a bit out of it, by opening high tier CC and pay the loan off with it for the points.

• I'm military so I don't pay annual member fees

• I got a high credit score

• I will always pay the cards off asap if used at all (I rarely use CCs)

I read that these transactions might not count, so perhaps use a third party service? (If so, don't know which one is a good one)

Recently moved here and an avid diy mechanic. I was wondering if there are any junkyards with good selection? So far i only know about Pick N Pull in RI but that's about an hr away from me.

I was selling a car, and someone who was really interested in it called me. He offered to buy tomorrow but to hold it if I was given 500 on Venmo or just wait and he'll give me all in cash. I said sure on Venmo, but later I discovered my car needed safety-related maintenance and I decided to take care of that first so I contacted him to refund his money and he was fine with it although upset about the car.

I saw no way to just refund the Venmo balance, just send him the money back from my bank as a new transaction. Naturally, I looked at his profile and saw a bunch of car-related transactions which raised a flag for me, and decided to dig into possible sc

I recently graduated and plan to move out of state in 6 months so for the time being, I looked into working instead of living off my savings.

I recently got hired by this place on a 6-month contract. I just worked there for 2 weeks, but recently I got offered to work by this other company (6-months too) in the same area, the same role for more money. I tried quitting my first job, but they hit me with a bigger counteroffer because I was doing really well. I'm only staying doing this for 6 months so I don't really care about the benefits and long-term outlook.

** should I just stay Just stick it out for the contract term?

CurrentJob - Pros:

• Offered 22% increase on the counteroffer.
• M

I recently returned to the IT/Engineering field after graduating and I interviewed with a company down the street. It went great and consequently last Thursday (2/17) I got an Offer Letter emailed from them willing to pay over 10k what currently make (pay range was not discussed at all beforehand).

But being that it what the first number they threw at me, I generously and politely asked the HR rep on the phone if they could do 5-8k more (not verbatim), she told me > Hmm, that's almost to the next level from your position, but I will ask

Unfortunately, I haven't heard from them since and the original letter expired (it was a timed letter on their portal)

Did I really just mess this up

• What are your goals for your car audio system - as loud as possible (SPL)? Sound quality (SQ)? Some combination of both? Describe to us how you want your system to sound.

• SQ>SPL

• What vehicle? - year, make, model, type (coupe, sedan, SUV, truck, etc.)

• 2004 MR2 Spyder

• What is your maximum budget?

• $300.00

• Will you be installing the gear or are you going to a shop? If a shop is doing the work, does your budget include the cost of labor?

• Self

• What gear is in your existing system? (Is it stock? List any aftermarket gear.)

• Amp: Alpine PDX5-V9 (Sub-line: 500w RMS), HU: Kenwood Excelon 996XR

• **What is your coun

Hey all,

I got accepted for the "The Edith Nourse Rogers STEM Scholarship" right before my GIBILL ended as I have a yr left of college. Everything seems fine on the school tuition side.

But it's been 2 months so far and I have not received any BAH yet, I have called and all they keep telling me is that "All we can see in your file is that your BAH is in processing/Queue"

• Has anyone on a similar situation experienced the same? anything else I can do to get more details? I'm running out of savings waiting.

UPDATE: As of 05NOV20 I have just received all the BAH that was owed to me, total waiting time has been a little under 3 months. I hope this gives everyone some insight

*Dear Claimant,

We have received your application (VA Form 22-1995) for the Edith Nourse Rogers STEM Scholarship.  At this time, we cannot make a formal determination on your eligibility for the Rogers STEM Scholarship.  However, we have received the information that we requested from your school, and we have determined that you meet the STEM Scholarship eligibility criteria. *

I'm a little worried that I got this response since I don't know if I'm SOL now.

Im sort of new to UCF,

Last semester I got a C- on a prereq (COT 3100) . I was told as per UCF that even though I "passed" the class, I still need to re-take it to get a C needed for the next class (COP 3503).

I just successfully enrolled for COP for Fall'20 and the system didnt gave any errors, does that mean I'm good?

I've been doing research on this but haven't found much info on this specific topic.

What is a good Bi-directional scanner (new or used) that has a low cost of ownership? Like subscriptions for fix information and updates. I recently got a cheap Snap-on Verdict that has SureTrack, but its like 2k a year to subscribe and thats not counting update cost. Would an Autel or Launch be better (cheaper to own)?

DYI'er that works on mainly Asian cars.

Ive been having trouble getting rid of this code for a while now. This is a 2004 Toyota MR2 Spyder, 1zz engine with 141K. I know tis pertains to the Bank 1 Sensor 2 (after cat.) and I've tried:

• Had this issue before, Bought an OEM Denso sensor, P0136 after 3 months.

• swapped "bad" Denso sensor to Bank1sensor1's place, P0136 only.

• Got an aftermarket O2 sensor for bank1sensor2, P0136 only.

• Used a Fluke 199c Scopemeter (negative connected to negative batt. terminal) measured the resistance for each o2 plug (3 total), and all have same resistance across all terminals.

• I have a basic ODB2 live reader and the Bank1Sensor2 shows an maintains a 0.02v to 0.05v reading while the other s

I have a small 2 door car and recently installed a Kenwood DNX996XR HU, I've been using a JL 500/5 amp for years which I still love (its just BIG) but was considering getting an Alpine PDX-V9 as its more recent, would that be a good move? My goal is SQ.

The JL has class-AB for the fronts and D for the sub, and the Alpine is all D.

Its currently powering:

• Infinity Kappa 60csx 100w components.
• Alpine type-R 350w 8" ported sub.