I currently have some low end Tektro MD-c510 (short pull) mechanicals and looking to upgrade to something with a bit more power. I know the gold standard is the Paul Klampers but I think a set of those is worth more than my entire bike. The TRP Spyre-SLC set looks good, but I have no experience with them. Any other recommendations?
benuntu
u/benuntu
I'm looking to expand the solar provided at a shed about 15 feet away from my main home. This is a finished shed, more like an ADU but without a bathroom. Ideally I'd like to backfeed the excess power produced into the main panel of my house, but not sure how to safely do that, or if it's even a good idea. Legislation is currently pending for "plug in solar" and my current solar setup is leased, so I'm unable to modify it until I buy it out. From what I understand I can increase my output to the grid by up to 10% without triggering any sort of alerts.
My primary goal is to eliminate all loads in the shed pulling from the grid. Secondary is to be able to expand this in the future to bac
Amateur/DIY woodworker here, so apologize for the noob questions. I have a roughly 22 wide by 24 long garage that has finished walls but unfinished ceilings. The previous homeowner put in a ladder and some plywood to store things up there and did a super shady job of scabbing on some 2x6's to the existing 2x8 trusses. We're talking 8 foot sections using all manner of bolts, screws and nails affixed to the center of the rafters. Now the middle of the truss is about 3 inches lower than the height at the walls, and I want to fix that. The plan is to first fix the sag by jacking up each sagging truss, then put a full length 8-10" LVL laminated on the existing truss. Finally, I'll be putting in
Amateur/DIY woodworker here, so apologize for the noob questions. I have a roughly 22 wide by 24 long garage that has finished walls but unfinished ceilings. The previous homeowner put in a ladder and some plywood to store things up there and did a super shady job of scabbing on some 2x6's to the existing 2x8 trusses. Now the middle of the truss is about 3 inches lower than the height at the walls, and I want to fix that. The plan is to first fix the sag by jacking up each sagging truss, then put a full length 8-10" LVL laminated on the existing truss. Finally, I'll be putting in drywall to finish the ceiling, adding some puck lights and insulating.
Not sure if that is the proper way t
I have some users requesting Cronofy access to their accounts/calendars. Is there a way to ensure that data which Cronofy accesses is kept private? And is it better security practice to use an organization account that has access to certain user calendars, or allow end-user authentication?
We are in the demo phase right now and Trimble is in the running, but I'm looking for some opinions for people that have actually used it. It ticks all the boxes for functionality but the UI is pretty dated. Not a deal breaker for accounting staff, but IME that usually indicates a lack of investment in their product. FWIW, we're coming from Sage 300 and also looking at Sage Intacct, so feel free to throw your thoughts about that in as well. Thanks!
tl;dr:
Question 1: DIY solar/power setup vs. portable power station
Question 2: Build a custom power distribution setup or go with prebuilt?
I've recently build out a set of drawers/bed platform for my truck bed and looking to design a clean power connection area. I haven't seen any "all in one" units, so I'm assuming most people either use their portable power stations or fabricate their own. Here are the main components I'm looking for:
- Shore power input (120v AC)
- 120v AC outlet
- 12v outlet for portable fridge (maybe will just wire this to the rear where the fridge goes)
- USB type-A and type-C
- Solar input from 200W on the roof
I already have a 768Wh portable power station,
Our A/C has been underperforming with air coming out of the vent between 75-80F with outside temps in the 100F range. Tech came to inspect the unit and said the compressor was overheating and shuts down before it will start to cool again. System is a Trane XL1200 from 1998, so not a bad run I suppose. Since this is an R22 system, they (of course) recommended a full replacement since parts and refrigerant are difficult or impossible to find.
What is a reasonable estimate for a full system replacement, including labor, taxes, permitting, warranty, etc.? I've had quotes for a Lennox 3 Ton for $21K and $13.5K for a Carrier PGB4. I have a friend that said the Lennox systems seem to have pro




