dark79

I'm running CachyOS. I've tried using the Redbeard toolkit and the new BC250-Control-Center for core and CU unlocking + other fixes.

For some reason, GPU sensors break at some point (always at different steps) and then gets stuck at 0C and can't read power usage. NCT6687 was installed because at some point it was working fine. I can have everything done and working properly only to find it broken randomly. Or it can break in the middle of setting everything up.

Seems like any time I touch my config in any way it breaks and I can't figure out how to fix it without nuking everything and starting over. The last time this happened, was right after I changed the performance profile on Redbear

Preordered back in August. Was part of the 1st batch shipment that got stuck in Nancheng for 2 weeks. Finally got my order yesterday.... and it's the wrong color...

I've searched here and seen that for the Odin 2, they would send replacement shells. This probably won't be an option with the Thor, since I don't see an easy way to get the screen side apart.

Anyone else have to do a return or exchange? What hell am I in for?

So I just got my Air75v3 yesterday and really like it. The blush switches are pretty mushy, but I can live with it because I need the quietness.

Anyway, I'm having 2 issues that hopefully someone can help with. I already emailed Nuphy about them, but thought I'd check here if anyone else has any quick fixes.

1. Can't enter Bitlocker keys at bootup. I saw a post about this on the Air75v2 that was resolved with firmware, but nothing about the v3. I already updated to the latest firmware. It's not that the keyboard doesn't work, it's that none of the keys work as they should. Example: Backspace = "a"

2. Bluetooth works fine with my personal laptop and desktop, but not my work laptop. Which

Seriously. Just poach someone from the Bambu Labs UI team if necessary. There's no excuse for UI to be this bad so long for the cost of this printer and the audience they're targeting.

Sorry if this sounds aggressive, I just spent an hour emptying and cleaning the vat (just another reason NOT to use the autofill system) because the tank clean "OK" confirmation button overlaps the "START" button of the previous screen. (WHY!?!)

More than once I've misinterpreted UI lag (yeah, it's a thing) for missed touch and double tapped out of habit causing an accidental vat clean without something in the vat to release it easily.

So annoying! But so is the fact that the Setting menu is a cluster thing

Is EufyMake team the same as EufyCam team? Because EufyCam cost me nearly $1000 in cameras they wouldn't replace or refund due to some having known hardware defect (delaminating solar panels) and forced updates you can't disable that pushed a bad firmware (admitted by support) that bricked some others.

I'm interested in the E1, but not if I'm dealing with the same people.

I posted a few days ago about issues with getting Home Hub Pro set up on a VLAN. My plan is to put all my Reolink cameras on this VLAN. I was able to finally get that working, but now the Home Hub Pro won't see any other cameras on the same VLAN.

So in order to connect a Battery Doorbell and a CX410W, I have to first connect them to the Home Hub Pro's built in Wi-Fi and then go into each camera's Wi-Fi settings and change it to my VLAN's SSID.

This works for both of those, but not the Lumus Pro. The Android app gives me a "WiFi failed" or something like that and then the camera remains in limbo. I can see it on the network, but can't access it. The Home Hub Pro just shows it as "Disconnec

I'm trying to dump my Eufy system for Reolink. Right now I only have the Home Hub Pro and the Battery Doorbell. Ideally, I want to put all of these devices on their own IOT VLAN.

This is fine with the Doorbell. But the Home Hub Pro just won't initialize and setup when behind the IOT VLAN. It works on the main LAN, where I don't want it.

After fighting with it for hours, I gave in and put it on the main LAN and left the Doorbell on the VLAN, but doing that means I can't connect the Doorbell to the Home Hub Pro.

I updated the firmware on the Home Hub Pro to the latest version manually since the auto-updater wasn't picking anything up. v3.3.0.369_24112931

What am I missing?

I bought multiple refurb Neckbands from Viture's eBay account (accidentally. they shipped before I was able to cancel) and none were factory reset. One still had the previous owner's Google account still linked.

The takeaways here are a) if you're returning a Neckband or Neckband Pro to Viture, make sure you delete the attached accounts and factory reset. b

Stock or Spruce doesn't seem to matter. Calibrating doesn't seem to fix it either. I tried changing the joystick for a standard joycon stick, but the results were the same. Is this A30 just a dud or am I missing some simple fix?

Whenever I have problems Mon - Fri, support is always quick to respond. They may not have an answer I like (like microSD card slot doesn't current do anything), but I still get responses fairly quickly. Except on weekends.

The last 2 weekends I've had issues and both times I don't get a response Monday in whatever timezone their support staff are in.

I've burned though half a bottle of PARP10 on a 200ml print that just stops printing for no good reason. Actually, it continues to do everything it normally does while printing except turn the UV lamp on to harden the layers. This keeps happening around layer 1000. I have resliced, resent, switched to USB flash drive, created a whole new proje

I finally got my resin and heated vat order.

When using the heated vat, the plate lowers into the vat and does some kind of mixing operation, which is nice.

But when it finishes, it rises all the way to to top and all the resin that collects on the plate drips down causing resin to splash all over the inside of the machine. I have resin all over the inside of my lid after the first use that I need to try to clean now.

This probably makes sense on the older Reflex because it has a perforated plate. But with the solid plate of the RS, it's a problem.

I'm getting flashbacks from the early days of the Elegoo Saturn 2 when it would pull the plate all the way to the top when a print complete

I've had my Note Air 3C for about 6 months and noticed that the top right corner of the screen protector is peeling out of nowhere. This is my 4th Boox device and the only one that's had defect.

I reached out to Boox support. The best they would do for me is send me 2 protectors but I had to pay the shipping. The fact that I need to fix a defect myself is already ridiculous, but to also have to pay the shipping is moreso, IMO. I've seen other people have the same complaint about peeling corners so I think this is a Boox problem with some early units.

Anyway, has anyone ever replaced the factory screen protector on any of these devices? Preferably with a Boox factory replacement?

TL;DR : If you want a private display to ADD to your existing devices, the Viture Pro XR is the one to get. If you want a completely separate ecosystem from pretty much everything then AR Lite is for you.

I wanted to update my Rokid Max with something that can do multi-monitor display for greater productivity. I was thinking about getting the upcoming Rokid AR Lite because I really liked my Rokid Max glasses, but Rokid isn't very clear on what you're actually getting. Since they don't answer my questions directly, I did a bunch of research myself and found that these two devices are VERY different.

Unfortunately, Rokid didn't want me to [share that info](https://i.imgur.com/RjhErJa.jp