golf_ST

The question of the difference between passive and active tension was raised yesterday with respect to a video by Loi about finger training. This post is to clarify what I think is meant by those terms, how they're different, and how they're trained.

First, a physics class....

Force is developed by the forearms, transmitted by tendons through the structure of the hand/wrist, and applied through the finger tips. This can be simplified to a physics problem similar to this diagram. There are forces at your finger tips, and forces at your muscle, in between is a high friction pulley. Referring to the diagram, let M be the

A common question: I climb Vx, I flash 90% of Vx-1s, send Vx in 1-3 sessions, and Vx+1 feels impossible.

Cool. Most people have exactly this experience in the gym, and it’s true at a variety of grades. V1 is easy, V2 is doable, V3 is impossible. V10 is easy, V11 is doable, V12 is impossible. In the gym, there is usually a very narrow gap between flashable and impossible.

This is largely due to the nature of setting boulder problems in the gym. The ideal is to force a single beta, that works for 95% of people reasonably well, and reasonably similar difficulty. This lends itself to doing lots of problems quickly because there isn’t a lot of room for nuanced micro-beta and creativity

Here is the original post. TLDR, 10,000 kettlebell swings, mostly 40kg bell, some 36kg, some 44kg. 10,000 seconds time under tension for deadhangs on a 20mm edge. Everything done as 25 sets of 20 reps or 20 seconds. I intended to ARC Mt Everest, 29000 ft, as well, but Omicron.

Results. Completed in 20 workouts, 24 calendar days. Gained weight (2-5lbs), lost fat. I did not do any kind of body comp measurements, but I'm visually leaner, maybe 2-3% BF dropped. Which makes sense, swings are exhausting. My lower back is noticeably thicker, forearms are more vascular. Feel super fit, car