icantlivewithoutit

Hey everyone, looking for some insight on a keyless entry issue with my 2010 Saab 9-3 2.0T.
The car had a complete physical CIM delete performed last year, with a starter switch wired in to bypass the factory ignition. Despite this, the OEM key fob continued to operate the locks/trunk normally for months afterward.
Recently, all remote functions stopped working simultaneously.
What I’ve tried/confirmed:
Replaced the CR2032 battery with a fresh one.
Inspected battery contacts and the fob’s PCB.
Confirmed the fob is transmitting RF using a friend’s RF reader (frequency verified within spec).
Car still starts and operates normally via the bypass.
No remote buttons respond wh

Last 2-3 weeks my store and some other stores have been receiving way more than our order to level on all things. hard parts and sales floor stuff. overstock over flowing. QOH correct 🤷‍♂️Is this happening everywhere or localized to us ?

2010 9-3 Injector Circuit 1-4 (P0201 , 202, 203, 204) Wastegate Solenoid Circuit High Voltage and Low Voltage (Both codes)

Car was having a noticeable higher-load misfire when cold, once warmed up the misfire would go away entirely. Replaced plugs and coils and had good luck for a few months and the problem started again.

Replaced plugs again and it helped again for a couple more months. This cycle worked and I didn’t mind doing the plugs every few months as I have a cheap source and its not a hard job.

I got away with this for the last year or so until this last batch of plugs didn’t make any difference. The misfire when cold continued.

I was being optimistic and figured since it nev

2010 9-3 2.0T. Getting a high load misfire P0300. Only does it until the car is completely warm then it mostly goes away. Replaced coils, still doing it. 1st gear is not affected. The misfire gets worse and more noticeable as you go up in gears. Then essentially goes away completely once up to operating temp. Any suggestions ?

I have owned my 2010 9-3 2.0T for about 2 years now. When I bought the car the fuel gauge didn’t work so I bought a new Delphi fuel pump. Fixed the issue and the pump worked well for maybe 5,000 miles or so then failed on me. Replaced it under warranty 2 times after that. So a total of 3 fuel pumps. Last night my car starts missing and back firing real bad on acceleration (doing the same thing it was when the other pumps failed). I asked a few of my mechanic friends why they would keep failing and have gotten different answers. Possible dirty fuel tank, other short in the circuit somewhere… I’m beginning to feel defeat with this car but I love the car and would love to figure out the underly