plus1111

I have 2 TP-Link Archer C7 routers. They have served me well for years. My current broadband gateway is also a router. I have disabled DHCP on the TP-Link units. They are spread around the house and both are hardwired.

According to what I can see using INSSIDER, both are on fairly clean channels. When I use WIFI my thruput will often drop to zero. Speedtest.net is showing pretty awfully on wifi but shows amazing speed wired.

I'm pretty sure my wifi is the issue but it's been years since I've needed to study wifi.

Does anyone see anything glaringly stupid that I've overlooked or is it time to invest in new equipment? By the way, I think DDWRT will run on thes

I have been using LastPass for years. I currently have just the basic service. I understand this allows me to use the service only on PCs and I had it on three until recently, after a master password issue and change I seem to be locked to only one PC. Is this because I do not have the Premium license?

This has been happening for a few months. When I try to log in with my lastpass app it tells me to look for an email that never comes. Once I was able to log in and I immediately changed my password. That PC has remained logged in. I use 3 Windows 11 machines and when I try to log any of the others in I am instructed to look for an email that never arrives. I have checked the junk folder. The change email verification arrived without issue. What an I missing?

I have been using the free version for years on my PC. About 2 weeks ago I found myself logged out. When I logged in it told me to watch my email. Nothing arrived. On one login attempt it said my account was not found but it only did this once. All my PC's are logged out, BTW.

I tried the lost password link, it again promised an email but nothing happened. I am now very concerned that my entire account is gone?

Does anyone have any ideas or advice?

Thanks.

Paul Ellison

We currently have a Rheem softener that is less than 5 years old. It ha recently stopped regenerating by itself. The test function shows it is metering water flow as it should. A manual regen works as it should. Water fills the brine tank, then is drawn into the resin and it properly removes the brine. The next time it is due it again just won't. We are on deep well city water with a hardness of 25-30. I recently cleaned the orifice but this started several months after that.

I am going to unplug it for a few hours in case it's brain is scrambled.

I've lived with several of these machines over the years and never had this issue. They have always been very reliable except of the

I've been messing wit this for a long time. Diagnostics show normal sleep on occasion and usually abnormal sleep current. I have tried a new IBS. I now have a new battery, from BMW which is properly registered. I checked each fuse after the car was asleep and found no draw but I still get the warning after it has slept for a bit. I know the E60 and E61 are weird about charging issues.

I have a voltage meter in the lighter plug that powers off when the car is off. I never see much charge over 14v and have maybe seen 14.2v. Ground straps all check good too.

There is a plug in the Positive battery terminal that has been cut. It has two little black wires. I guess I will repair them

I have been very pleased with the service for 3-4 years now. Lately thru-put just dies for 15-30 seconds or so and then resumes. I've rebooted it many times including pulling the plug for a minute and reconnecting. It's screen always says excellent connection. It gets terribly slow at times too but my iPhone tethers and is fast. Is my gateway dying? Thanks!

Our OTR microwave is driving me nutz. It's a GE and it's properly installed. We've had identical units in 2 previous homes with no issues. It does a miserable job of moving cooking odor and steam from the cookktop outside. Oddly, when I stand under the outside vent it's strong enough to ruffle my hair (it's 10ft up.) Inside I can watch steam and stuff roll up the front of the microwave and on up the cabinets. It's the proper height above the stove. Needless to say it's messy. I've dropped the machine and verified the position of the vent blower. The exhaust like is the proper diameter and total length is about 6 ft.

I am about to chuck it but it's an Advantium Speed Cook device a

A few years ago we remodeled our kitchen. The OTR microwave is the proper height above the stove. The external vent is properly sized and total length is 6ft or less. The cooking steam and the like doesn't go outside properly. I did the installation myself and I am experienced. I've also removed the unit to verify the blower is properly set for outside exhaust. Outside there is substantial air flow from the vent. I can watch the steam rise in front of the unit and crawl up the cabinets. I've done 3 of these over the years and never had the issue before. The unit is a GE Advantium with a minimum 400 cfm blower. I need a cure. Anyone have any good suggestions?

We bought a 2015 535i X-Drive last summer. It is in reasonably nice condition and had about 100k miles and runs great. Over winter we found the front portion of X-Drive is AWOL. There are no codes but the front wheels get no power at all. All the tests I can run reveal nothing. Testing the actuator passes, I hear it moving. I have the car up now, I'm going to crawl under and make sure the front drive shaft is there.

I'm out of ideas and I hoped the hive mind has some ideas. Thanks!

I have rings set to the max on the Ooma voicemail because we have a machine tied to the phone. Every month or two we still get a VM on the Ooma box. Any idea why they still come thru to the Ooma machine?

Thanks!

This is our first winter where it has gotten this cold since we installed it. It's not a recognized name but looks like a Mr. Cool to me. After it has run for a while it basically quits. Before it does it heats and defrosts as expected. I kinda think we are below it's preferred temp outside. If I turn it off a minute and then back on it heats for a while then stops. There may be a slight bit of air coming out but it is minimal.

I suspect this is normal but I figured I'd ask.

Our "new" 2015 535i came with headlight issues. Selling dealer hasn't figured it out yet. No adaptive, no turn signal, no bright/dim.

From the part #'s on the headlight and the control module it looks like the lights are from a 2012 model.

I'm not surprised of the malfunction if this is the case but I am surprised they would even fit.

Any clues or suggestions? Thanks!

We're moving from an E60 to a F10. My Foxwell doesn't seem to chat with the F10. Any suggestions for me to upgrade with?

Thanks