programstuff

I have both a BAUER 15 Amp 3.8 HP 14 in. Abrasive Cut-Off Saw and a Bosch GCM12SD miter saw.

I've had the cut-off saw for a bit and later on bought the miter saw. I know the chop saw has a larger blade capacity, but otherwise is there any real reason to keep both? I don't cut much metal but if I did it would be aluminum extrusion or strut. For aluminum extrusion I would just use a carbide tipped wood blade on the Bosch, and for strut I'm guessing I can just put an abrasive cut off wheel on the Bosch as well b

I’m guessing the algorithm is just promoting this to me but it also looks relatively new and I can’t find any non-sponsored reviews of it.

Here’s the link: https://workiqtools.com

I was planning on getting a vise soon so I’ve been searching so that’s probably why it showed up. I was looking at either the M10WW or maybe building a moxon vise. I do some woodworking but also just various hobby and DIY stuff. Generally use my smaller vise when I can to press fit printed parts, clamp metal for cutting, clamp wood projects for sanding or assembly but also have other clamps and ways to do that.

Anyways looks kinda cool and easy to move to different locations but could also just be hot garbage.

Other than one being free and the other paid, the only difference I’m aware of is from the intro to the gridfinity system video it’s mentioned the Chappell system might be geared more towards woodworking.

My googling and reddit searching has failed me so wondering if anyone knows why one system might be geared towards one type of use or the other?

Zach talks about Gridfinity being meant for display and grabability but it can also clearly be tucked away into drawers.

Is there any reason I might consider another system over this one?

Unfortunately we are not able to attend.

Sec MF Row G

I paid $450 for all 4 and looking for $300

Hopefully allowed here since just hoping someone can use them and I can get some of my money back.

Unfortunately we are not able to attend.

Sec MF Row G

I paid $450 for all 4 and looking for $400 (OBO)

Hopefully allowed here since just hoping someone can use them.

I have an AVR and all of my devices are plugged into it with a single HDMI out from the AVR to my TV. Doing it this way allows me to see my AVR menu on screen on any input, including its settings and volume levels. I just replaced my 4K cube from last year with the one that just came out and the overlay no longer works. Just HDMI out from cube to the AVR like normal. Curious if anyone else has seen this and fixed it?

Again, I did not have this issue with the 4K cube from last year

I had the opportunity to figure out how to remotely upgrade my router in another location to 7.1. I was fine if things went wrong because this was just a remote location that was low priority that I could travel to if things went wrong.

Not really a ton that I had to actually do after a lot of trial and error, the gist of it is I had to unbundle v6 packages so that I had enough space to finally just upgrade to 7.1 using the web ui.

This post has all the majority of the information which was helpful but I will copy/paste below: https://forum.mikrotik.com/viewtopic.php?t=144719#p719655

Prerequisites / Notes:

• This was a remote environment that was not at all crucial, I just wanted to

I was talking with a friend asking how to upgrade AP firmware and we noticed the only difference was that he was signed into Omada cloud and I was not. As soon as I signed I was able to trigger updates for the firmware on all my APs. Is this a requirement for this feature or is there another way to enable it?

• Google calendar is still missing a subscription option for the Kraken schedule

• The official calendar uses rokt calendar and requires giving out my personal information and requires way too many permissions:

See, edit, share, and permanently delete all the calendars you can access using Google Calendar

Are there any other options right now?

NOTE: I have already reverted everything I tried and put back in the original non-smart switches using the original 3-way configuration

Despite being brand new construction, one set of 3-way lights appears to be wired in a configuration that I believe is known as a "switch loop".

I changed out every switch in my house after moving in but these two I have not been able to figure out.

Here's a link to an album with some images: https://imgur.com/a/D5kHcJW

I did four other 3-way setups in my house and they all went fine. Normally my OOP is:

1. Use a tester to find out which switch is line, mark that wire with tape
2. Install primary 3-way switch at this location
3. At other loc