pullupsNpushups

Can others tell me if what I'm seeing is normal or not? I'm not sure if it's lens flare, internal reflections of the lens assembly, or if my lens is defective from the factory.

When looking at a Christmas tree with the telephoto lens, I can see lots of bright squares that aren't there in real life. If I'm holding the camera sideways for landscape, then these bright squares will only move vertically (along the axis of the short dimension of the telephoto lens).

These bright artifacts don't appear in the ultrawide or regular lens, only the telephoto lens. I've closely examined the telephoto lens, but I don't see any dust or other abnormalities.

My best guess is that due to the construction

My Sennheiser IE600 died recently, and before purchasing a replacement pair, I figured it'd best to ask if there are any recommended alternatives to it.

I have a max budget of $2k. I suppose I'd be looking for a neutral IEM that's small like the IE600 and looks minimalistic. Most of the IEMs I see have bulky resin shells, so maybe that's not avoidable and isn't as big of a deal as I'm thinking it is, but I did enjoy the fit of the IE600. I also enjoyed the simplicity of the dynamic driver of the IE600, especially since it doesn't sacrifice on bass like some BA do.

Essentially, is there any IEM that would be worth my time over the IE600? Some of the options I'm floating in my mind are the M

I was wanting to try out Bitdefender, but when trying to install it, it demanded me uninstall Malwarebytes before proceeding. I knew they were compatible with each other, so I wanted to see if there was a way to get around this artificial limitation.

I should preface by saying that this happened to work for me, at the time of writing, but it might not work for you if Bitdefender decides to clamp down further in the future.

The following method is a quick and reversible way to trick Bitdefender into thinking Malwarebytes isn't installed on the system.

• Open regedit as administrator
• Go to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Uninstall\
• Click through the regist

The loud clicks from the Raesha optical switches in my mouse are driving me insane, so I was wondering if anyone has advice on how to make them more quiet? I have an extra pair of switches to experiment with, so there's no risk to me ruining the original switches.

I know that the Mullvad client for Windows is supposed to be blocking the SMB ports of 137, 138, 139, and 445, but I am suddenly able to mount SMB shares after failed attempts in the past. I had to access my NAS through a different protocol to get around this previously, but out of curiosity, I tested mounting a SMB share after updating the Mullvad client to version 2023.5, and it seems to work for some reason.

Windows might not completely like it, since it unmounted the SMB share after I hammered it hard with a large remote backup, but another program was still able to communicate to the share in the background, meaning the connection was still open. I just had to disconnect and reconnect

I am asking this here because I want an NVMe SSD with more than 4 TB of capacity but at a low price. There are cheap 7.68 TB and larger U.2/U.3 drives on the second-hand market, so I think this could be useful to many people that also only have access to M.2 slots.

I have an itx system with only M.2 slots that I can use to connect to U.2/U.3 drives. I was wondering if anyone has successfully confirmed any M.2 SFF-8643 to SFF-8639 adapters to properly work at PCIe 4.0 speed without any CRC errors? That's something I'm worried about after reading this ServeTheHome thread.

I would imagine that the M.2 to SFF-864

I want convex thumbsticks for a Dualsense controller, and I was wondering if the thumbsticks from the Dualsense Edge modules fit in the regular controller?

Based on the teardown video from iFixit, they look like they would fit. You can take the top and bottom of the thumbstick out of each module, and I'd imagine you can transplant them into the potentiometer of a regular Dualsense.

Can anyone confirm? If not, I suppose I'll have to buy them and try myself.

I've noticed that File Explorer will slow down over time and becomes noticeably slow after 4-5 days of system uptime. Operations such as right-click context menus open slower than normal, and opening folders with content like pictures or music will be extremely slow.

Closing all the File Explorer windows does not fix the issue. I have to restart the computer or just restart the File Explorer process in Task Manager manually, and everything goes back to be snappy and instantaneous, as you would expect on an SSD.

At this point, I feel like I've tried everything. I've looked around to see if other people have found solutions, but I didn't find any besides the short-term fix of restarting Fil