revevs

I live in an old house with lots of eaves and no insulation. The rafters are 90-100mm deep, and my plan so far has been to put 50mm PIR between them as thats the most I can fit while still allowing a suitable airflow gap.

I’m planning a new roof soon, and I know when its over 25% of the roof that building regs need to be met regarding insulation.

Obviously I can’t meet the U value on my eaves as theres physically no room. I’ve considered a second layer or PIR internally, but the room size and eaves height is already limited.

Has anyone else had a similar issue? Is this a case where It’s probably ok to do just 50mm PIR as thats all I can realistically do?

I don’t want to spend time rippin

Ok, so i’ll admit this is mostly a random thought and ‘what if… but i’ll post it anyway.

I’ve been looking at a re-roof and of course as part of that in-roof solar seemed like an obvious thing to consider.

Now the quotes have been coming in in the region of £20k for ~16-20 panels and battery store of 18-25Kwh, gateway, GSE etc.

Now I know i’m being ridiculous, and its not comparable at all… BUT - As plug-in solar is now one kit per circuit and not per house, and I could then do 4 kits while staying under the 3.68Kwh limit…. Why not save myself 18k and get 4 plug in kits?

Yes I know theres no battery storage, way less panels, but also its really cheap and easy, and at some point there ar

My immersion heater currently has a manual on/off switch, and I've never used it as I have an oil boiler thats always been much cheaper to use.

I now have a cheap overnight electricity rate (3.99p kWh), which unless I'm wrong means its now cheaper to use the immersion.

Looking to swap out my manual switch with the Timeguard FST24 - other than removing the switch and putting the timecard in its place, am I missing anything (Timeguard is 13A and I know a little higher would be better, but it should be ok for a 3kW immersion element?)

I know the mechanical type are meant to be better built - but arent as accurate time wise, and lose time in a power cut etc (I'd rather the not have to check

I have Tailscale installed on a M1 MBA.

I’m finding that the connection keeps going up and down.

The machine is online and I can connect to it via its normal IP, but its status will often be offline via the Tailscale app on another machine. I also can’t ping it via Tailscales iOS app.

If I SSH onto the machine via its normal IP then it comes back online in Tailscale.

I thought the network or machine were sleeping, but then I wouldn’t be able to SSH in via the non Tailscale IP.

Anyone else seen this - any ideas?

I currently have a set of the KEF 2001.5 “Egg” speakers that I use for my TV.

Looking to redesign the living room and with the current plan those speakers won’t work right in the space, so I’ve been looking at a soundbar.

Now what I’d like to know is - are soundbars like the Samsung 990 really that much worse than something like my KEF speakers for a normal room and not a dedicated home cinema? Or are audiophiles just getting a bit excitable and defensive? 🙂

It’s for a living room, rectangular room with low ceiling. Sitting about 3-4m back from the TV.

I won’t be sitting there analysing the sound, but I do want it to not be noticeably worse than what I have. If it’s one of those “wel

My house could do with a new roof, it's got to the point where most of the tiles are in need of replacing or fixing somehow. To be fair it's probably needed doing for a while, but I've always been told 'if it isnt leaking, leave it' by roofers.

Then I read that in-roof solar panels are cheaper to install than a new tile roof - assuming this is true - and I've always planned to get solar! So this seems like a very nice solution.

I was looking at the GSE in-roof system, have east-west roofs. Two roof sides are about 10m x 3m and the other available roof space 6m x 3m. So let's say about 75sqm of space.

Is this actually a good idea, or is it ridiculous to put that many panels on? If its actu

I posted a few days ago about my confusion on the Parka app, and how I checked-in and saw the timer was already counting up - but after leaving and what appeared to be an auto check-out I never got charged and couldn't see a log of it anywhere.

Well I'm pretty sure someone else paid for me - the previous person who rented the vehicle. My assumption is that someone still has the car registered on their account, and Pay By Plate enabled.

So - be careful and do not enable Pay By Plate, and if you must, be sure you disable it when you give the car back.

It does warn you in the Parka app, but clearly people ignore it. I suppose Parka should handle it in a better way. I'm sure they could work o

I parked in Harpa yesterday, and clicked check in as I did

Saw a timer counting up.

I was about to click check out as we left, but as we drove out the check out button and timer disappeared. I assume it auto checked me out?

I can’t see any payment or log of my parking in the app at all. Does it just take a while to show up?

Just paranoid about it over charging or that I messed up somehow

I have since parked in another place and that showed up instantly in payment history (as it was a one off charge not hourly)

Just trying to see if this is at all normal...

I have just started to use iCloud Photo Library, and am in the process of doing my initial upload. The storage used on iCloud is 2x the size of the original photos locally, if not more.

So far it its used 13GB of cloud storage for less than 800 photos. Locally those originals are using less than 6GB of space.

At this rate I'll never fit my 125GB library into my 200GB cloud storage.

I don't usually notice, but I'm transferring a 200GB file on my network (Internal, LAN only), and noticed that when I do that over WiFi I get at most about 9MB/s - Which I guess is close to 100Mbit.

If I go hardwired, then I'll get 35MB/s (Which is about the limit the fileserver I'm copying to)

I'm using a M1 MacBook Air - Connected via 5Ghz, TxRate reported as the full 1200Mbit

All ethernet connections report a 1Gbs speed, so it seems to be a WiFi issue or an issue with the Mac.
I have tried going via different Eero devices to rule out any specific access point.

Any ideas? I'm sure I'm overlooking something obvious.

I've printed a few useful and functional 3D items, and at some point in the future I may want to print them again (maybe they break, or I need another).

What are people using to keep a catalog of which files they print, other than maybe just putting all the STLs into a directory structure.

Just taken delivery of a P4.

After driving 15 miles, the battery has dropped to 89%. We have a long journey tomorrow and this is not filling us with confidence!

Is this normal? Does the battery take a few drives to sort itself out.

Second - we have the plus pack, no pilot. I assume it still has cruise control? Have tried pressing the button on the steering wheel, but nothing happens.

Thanks for any help!

Has anyone got a way to draw manual supports and have them be at the same layer/height?

If I draw them manually they are on slightly different layers, so thats leading to a lot of filament changes to do PETG support on PLA.

If I can get supports to attach at the same layer then that will cut down on filament changes and time

I will be getting an EV soon, and am looking for a home charger. I looked at the usual contenders - Ohme, Zappi, Hypervolt.

I'm wondering if anyone has experiences with the Masterplug EV charger? https://www.screwfix.com/p/masterplug-1-port-7-4kw-mode-3-type-2-socket-tethered-smart-ev-charger-with-5m-cable-black/150rl

It's quite a bit cheaper than the others and seems to have good reviews - sold on Screwfix/Argos.

I dont need any integration with a specific energy provides (i.e. octopus IG). I just want something reliable, that works when any cloud service goes