rumbleblowing

People from all major cities of Georgia report loss of electrical power.

I was interested in comparing the game performance in different graphics API modes. So I found the time and ran tests. I tried native Linux version of the game in OpenGL and Vulkan modes, as well as Windows version of the game through Proton Experimental in OpenGL, Vulkan, DirectX 11 and DirectX 12 modes.

My PC: AMD Ryzen 5 7600, 32 GB DDR5-6000CL30, AMD Radeon RX 7900 GRE (16 GB), increased power limit to 280 W. Game on a fast NVMe SSD. UWQHD display (3440×1440). Pop_OS 22.04. Steam recording the video in background. No other apps (like browser) running. I tried to use MangoHUD while playing, but wasn't able to make it work for Linux versions, only Windows versions.

Game: version 1.59.2.0

I have a Zen 4 Ryzen 5 7600 CPU. Recently, one of my 6000CL30 memory sticks died. Because it's hard to find that kind of memory where I live, I bought a new kit of G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB 2×16GB DDR5-6400 CL32. Sadly, it does not have any EXPO profiles, only one single A-XMP profile. I might try to run my memory controller at 3200 MHz, but if I can't, should I try to downclock the memory to the "sweet spot" of 6000CL30 (or maybe even squeeze something like CL28), or should I just keep it running as is?

Long story short, I was not particularly clever and plugged an unproven electrical device in the wall socket that was on the same circuit as the socket that had my PC plugged into and running. The device had short circuit inside, triggering the circuit breaker and obviously shutting the PC off. Later, when I tried turning the PC back on, it didn't POST, CPU+RAM LEDs glowing. I tried messing about with RAM, and apparently, one of my 16GB TeamGroup T.Create Expert DDR5-6000 CL30 sticks died. The PC works with one stick, but not with the other or both.

With the pricing of memory skyrocketing, should I rush to get a new kit of two sticks while it's still kinda affordable, or should I wait on si

I have an old (MFD Oct 2006) Acer LCD monitor that has high sentimental value to me. Unfortunately, its CCFL backlight stopped working. Everything else seems to be working well.

I have ordered a CCFL driver board from AliExpress, and it works great, the backlight has returned. The old driver works on OZ9932 chip, and the new one is on F6109A. They both have dimming based on a voltage applied to one of the pins. The problem is, they have their dimming logic reversed: original considers 0.2 V on a pin as lowest brightness and 2.3 V as highest brightness, and the new takes 5 V as lowest brightness and 0 V as highest.

I measured the voltage the monitor's control board is providing on the "brig