sky4

Before anyone says it, yes mixing emitters on a parrallel board is stupid. Vf's are different, things might not last as long. Also TLDR- use solder paste.

That said the 3 SST20's and 1 Nichia 219C seem to be getting along well. I'm burning through a VTC6 right now on a moderate setting. as a stress/thermal test. Actually quite liking the extra throw compared to the nichia board i had in there. the one Nichia i think increases the color temp a little in a nice way.

So I started this project a few weeks ago- got a couple quad boards from intl outdoor along with a pile of SST20s (4kk color temp) and Nichia 219Cs. First attempts were tinning the contacts with regular solder then trying

So I've recently switched from a D4 with mostly NCR18650GA's in it, to an FW3a as a daily light. the FW3a has taken a couple small headers (<1meter falls) Dented the tops of 2 of my VTC6 sony batteries. I don't think they're compromised, but it's not ideal.

initially blamed the FW3a, but looking at the flat tops of the VTC6's vs the old 18650GA's the GAs are waaaay thicker.

What other higher drain cells are more robustly constructed like that? I do love the performance of the Sonys, but dinged up batteries make me a little nervous.

Are the 30q's pretty robust? I've only got a button top so i can't compare flats to flats. I may just run the GA's in the my FW3a, they seem to

You know, the pale fella- he has some kind of electronic device the cop/nick takes it and lectures him a bit then Amelia steals his car.

I think i stumbled across something clever (for my uses) with my FW3A.

I'm a manufacturing engineer and i frequently need to quickly throw a little bit of light on a dark corner of machinery. the quad click to unlock is pretty easy, but not as quick as a single button press. So i created kind of a "technician mode"- always pretty dang bright with minimal clicks.

I set up my stepped mode with 1x7135 as the floor (65 clicks) and nx7135 as the top (21 clicks i think) and 4 modes total (5th being a double click to turbo) So when i lock it out it's 120 something lumens by holding down the button. if i do need more light i can unlock and use the other 4 modes.

My ramped setup is undistu

So I've got a pile of SST20s and Nichia 219C's on the way. I'm hoping to add a little throw to my D4, and maybe do something funky with my FW3A. Mostly focused on the D4.

Was thinking about doing 2 or 3 SST20s and a nichia or 2 on the D4. It's a Nichia light already, so I believe the firmware is set at 80% duty on turbo.

I'm told the Vf curves should be very similar to run them together on a parallel board (which makes perfect sense, as parallel will force Vf to be equal across the emitters)
How far off am I with this setup? how much disaster am I inviting? I'm mostly going to be running this thing around 60% max as a bicycle light, may get some EDC use as well.

Considering a simi

first impressions- super pretty little thing. fit and finish is great. I got the 4900K tint, it's a bit on the blue side compared to my 5000k nichias... that said 5000k nichia light is very beautiful, so not a fair comparison. It's as bright in turbo as my D4 nichia. The XP-L HI efficiency must help there.

if you take the tail cap apart don't lose the little nubbin! somehow found mine in the carpet. had to fuck with it didn't i?

take your time reassembling the tail. You want everything lined up nice and the tail cap nice and snug. If you don't you can loose power at higher settings/get weird behavior.

overall a great little light. the tail switch feels awesome, pocket clip is n

so tried this with both a samsung 30q (pink cell) and a sanyo NCR18650GA fully charged.

in L1 it has a constant flicker, it's not very dramatic, but very noticeable. playing with the custom modes it seems to only happen on mode 4 (with 1 being the lowest mode of the 12)

It's the 4000k high CRI model. just wondering if this is something anyone else is seeing on zebralight? I'm guessing a capacitor or something is out of spec or disconnected in the driver.

i mean it's not a wholly original idea.

Howdy all, quick question- I'm picking up a pair of D4S's for my parents for Christmas. They're avid boaters, so I'd like to get them in a color temp optimized for boating use. I'll probably do one nichia 219C 5000k just because I'm an utter fanboy for that emitter, but the second I'd like to set up as a boat light- so one of the CREE LED's for the better brightness, throw and efficiency.

was thinking 4000k would cut fog better. what do ya'll think?

I think I justified it as "needing a headlamp" and "wanting a 21700 light, cause that shit is the future"

anybody got one yet? who has a big burn mark on their forehead? I gotta find a Nomex hat.

I got the high CRI ST20 or whatever it's called.

So i've been a US-made light guy for awhile. I got curious about how bright and insane lights had gotten....

bought a D4s cause i thought the aux LEDs looked cool, it was bright as crap and the UI looked neat.

I carry it in the lower left cargo pocket of carhartt pants- actually fits well! It is a large heavy light, and i could see that being an EDC deal breaker.

I like it a lot for working on equipment- magnetic base plus tons of lumens makes it very handy. i have the nichia version which i love. high CRI! Also great for hiking at night, tons of power when you need it, easy to turn down to get lots of battery life. also makes an OK hand warmer.

Picked up a D4 on a whim- also Nichia. D

Bought a D4s last month that I'm quite chuffed with. insanely bright, and a really great beam- well centered smooth hot spot, and those nichia LEDs look like sunlight. oh yeah and the UI is fantastic.

Well, winter and darkness are here, and i'm trying to keep riding the cyclocross bike as much as I can. I tried a trustfire aluminum bar mount with the d4s... and sadly it's kinda wobbly. the d4s might be a little heavy for that application.

so i got a d4 and a twofish mount on the way.

i expect the d4 might end up as my carry light too. Though the d4s fits in my left lower carrhart pocket pretty nicely...

and no the G shock you use to clean gutters doesn't have to count.

95% of the time i wear my damasko DA44. It's honestly removed my need to collect watches. it has day, date, 12 hour bezel that can do time zones or be used for timing events. I don't have to worry about scratching it, getting it wet, getting gasoline/solvents on it (viton o rings, though i do try to be careful). it's comfortable, and it's a tool, it runs +3.5 seconds a day, and it's never given me an issue in the 10 months i've been wearing it.

I've got a g shock 5610 as well that basically gets used for mountain biking.

Saw it the other day can't find it now, kinda want one. Thanks for your help.