slvl

I have the following problem:

Car: 2010 Opel Astra 1.4t

Engine: GM A14NEL

Issue: After about 15 km / 20 minutes of driving at 100 km/h I may get an "AC turned off due to high motor temp" warning on the dash, plus the temp gauge turns off. No other lights or warnings.

• My ODBII dongle gives me a P0128 (Temp too low for thermostat operation) code.
• The engine temps stay nominal (90 - 100 ℃), fan works as expected.
• When I clear the code while driving I don't get the error again during that drive and everything goes back to (seemingly) working normal.

Here's the odd part: If I drive the first approx. 5 km/10 minutes slowly, or below 60 km/h or so, I don't get the issue. When I go to 80

I just posted this in a comment on an older thread, but I figured more people would be interested.

The default implementation of the gyro in Center-M leaves to be desired as it will stick to the cardinal axes (horizontal, vertical, diagonal) which prevents fine grained and mouse-like control. Handheld Companion used to be able to get around this but doesn't anymore and uses the same implementation as Center-M. Luckily WIN GPD Motion Assistant does work.

I used the steps in this video. You can ignore the parts about Steam, unless you have issues with that.

Here's the settings I use:

• Install Motion Assistant (There's a link in the video comments or g

It airs next tuesday and will be available on TVer.com with vpn and possibly on bilibili.

Just a quick post on this case, for those who are wondering if it will fit the Claw 8. This is about the updated version with the triangular cutouts in the the lid.

The Claw 8 AI fits, but only just. You don't have to force anything, but the triggers will be pressed, due to the shape of the cradle. For my use case it's not a problem, but if you intend to use it intensely this might not be the right case for you.

Other than that I can have a sizable powerbank (Ugreen Nexode 20000 mAh 100W) plus USB cable, power adapter and a pouch with an IEM. Without anything in the bottom compartment the cradle has no stop. It would be nice if there was a bit of velcro to keep it in place. The materials

I just got the Claw 8 and overall it feels like a great device. I got it as a screen size upgrade to the ROG Ally Z1E. As far as hardware goes it's a pretty big upgrade.

While the performance is great, I am missing a few quality of life things compare to the Ally:

• A bit more customization in the MSI Center main screen, as I like a grid layout more as opposed to the gallery.
• Better game art support. Now you have to select art manually, while Armory Crate pulls it from the store software.
• More options for the gyro. There currently is a lot of smoothing on the gyro, so much that it's not very useful for micro adjustments as it's too slow to respond, even when bumping up the sensitivity.

The girls will be in next weeks tuesday episode of Ano Chan no Dendendenpa ( あの 电电电波 ), which is a light hearted show where artists visit Ano's bed room to have a chat, play some games, etc. And the artists generally do a performance at the end.

The episodes can be found on BiliBili (Chinese video site, also popular in Japan)

https://preview.redd.it/f9urc5dn69md1.jpg?width=3053&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=20adea0d69c3c31ed3f53568815ec3013eee3a47

Because I coulnd't find a suitable case for my tips I hopped into Fusion 360 and designed a parametric tip case to be 3D printed. I figured it might be useful for others on this sub.

It's print in place and doesn't require any additional hardware. Also it's free 😉.

I had some very slight issues with first layer consistency on my Mini, like a few tenths of a mm of here and there. Prusa says you can try and fix it by loosening/tightening the bed screws, but that still didn't get me all the way.

I had some 6 mm silicone tubing laying around, but didn't outright want to do the full silicone mod. Since it was just a few tenths I thought, what if I just put some tubing around the existing nuts? So I cut off some 6.5 mm long pieces (7 mm might also work, the offsets are 6 mm) and lo and behold, it did the job. Obviously this only works up to about a mm I recon, due to the length of the screws that hold the bed, and I don't know if it will hold up. It at leas

I thought some people might be interested. Since it's a channel mainly targeted at singing that's mostly the main subject, but they will also be talking about other stuff, going by her other interviews. These interviews are mostly over an hour long.

For anyone who's interested, here's a link to the premiere.

edit: *Arjen

This method is far from proper, but it can be great to fix up a pan that hasn't been performing lately, or if you're just lazy, and only takes a few minutes. It can even done right before cooking.

Heat your pan up to a high temperature. Take a paper towel and put the tiniest amount of oil on it. I hold the towel against the bottle opening and tumble once. Then quickly wipe the surface of the pan with the oil and make sure you get everything. If you want you can wait a few seconds and reapply oil until you are satisfied with the colour.

"Disclaimer" of sorts:
I only tested this on carbon steel as I don't have any cast iron, so YMMV, but I though some might get some value out of this. This

Without SBX enabled the sidetone is practically without delay, but when you turn on SBX you will get a slight amount of delay and with surround enabled also some reverb. This is slightly annoying in that you're listening to yourself instead of just hearing yourself. I haven't found an option to get around this behaviour (other than outright disabling SBX).

Is there an option to have the sidechannel bypass the SBX? If not, consider this a feature request :)