webchemist

I had a 58" Hisense 4K HDR10 Roku TV I sold to a friend and decided to grant her access to my Plex along with it. Whenever she plays at HEVC x265 1080p/4K movie, it transcodes to SD H264 and adds a bunch of unnecessary CPU load just to give her poor quality. I went into her settings and:

• Manual Connections > added my static IP address
• Video & Audio > unchecked Quality Suggestions, set Remote Quality to Original, Allow Direct Stream is checked, tried setting Direct Play to Force, Max H264 to 5.1
• Subtitles> Burn Image Format Only

I don't get it, it would direct play hevc just fine when it was in my bedroom, and we both have 300+ Mbps connections so bandwidth shouldn't be a limitation.

Just upgraded to a 85" TV, and the new VESA mounting holes are 16" from lower mount holes to bottom of the TV, so my existing Arc TV Mount will not work, nor will pretty much any of the ones I found so far. The TV is too close to the ceiling to top mount. I can't do a flush wall mount due to cable concealer raceway. I did see the Sanus extendable mount, but I'd still strongly prefer to keep the bar attached to the TV so it will remain centered with the TV if I swivel, extend, or make any lateral adjustments to the TV position. Anyone dealt with this issue and have a mount to recommend? Thanks!

I have Arc/Sub Mini/2x Era 300 in my Living Room, 2x One SLs that formerly had one in each bedroom. Just bought a pair of Era 100s and made them a Stereo Pair in my bedroom, turned the One SLs into a stereo pair in my office. The Era 100s will not play songs from my local NAS share despite playing fine from Living Room and Office.

If I try to start the track from the Era 100's, the cover art will not load and immediately gives a "counldn't play content" popup. If I start the NAS share track in my Living Room or Office it will play, and then add in the bedroom it will play simultaneously in multiple rooms, but if I then try to unadd Living Room to go back to solo Bedroom it immediately quit

I've been shopping around for a Santa Fe Hybrid and found one at decent price with $4000 off when financing through HMF - but then once we start getting into OTD pricing, suddenly they say the $4K only qualifies for 2026 models. I've seen multiple autotrader listings from several dealerships for new 2025s still including the $4K HMF discount, with price adjustments in Jan/Feb (so not just old 2025 listing hasn't been updated).

This sales rep doesn't seem very bright, so I'm wondering if he just doesn't know how to plug in the correct 2026 discount code, or if multiple dealerships are knowingly falsely advertising discounted prices NO BUYER could ever qualify for when the vehicle itself is

I met an awesome woman in May, initially we really hit it off. One night at a brewery, we spotted a trippy painting she absolutely loved, she even jokingly posted to IG asking to borrow money to buy it. After a super fun weekend together, I decided to purchase it because I wanted to make her as happy as I felt just spending time with her. It felt too early to give to her right away, so I decided if we were still seeing each other by Oct it'd make a perfect birthday gift, or cool art for my apt if not. Kinda crazy but it’s rare I feel attraction without any nagging doubts, and I didn't want to hesitate and lose the painting to another buyer.

I royally screwed things up when the artist wanted

In May I met an amazing woman, felt like we were really hitting it off for a bit. Our 2nd time hanging out, she spotted this trippy painting for sale at a brewery and really loved it, even posted a half joking IG story asking to borrow money to buy it. A bit later after revisiting the brewery solo and admiring it, I decided to buy it thinking if things kept going well and we wound up dating, it’d make a hell of a birthday present for her in Oct. And worst case I’d have some cool art for my apt. In retrospect perhaps a bit crazy being uncertain how she felt or where things would go, but I felt a optimistic certainty in liking her without any hesitation or doubt, and I didn’t want to wait and

Having battery issues likely from a parasitic draw. First instance I took the 12V battery to Autozone, they tested it and told me it had gone bad, buy a new one. It was original factory Ford Motorcraft BXT-90T5-590, so 8 years seems like normal lifespan. But Autozone’s system suggested a Size 99 T4 battery which was clearly wrong, side by side you could see the 99 was a few inches shorter and only 470CCA not 590. So I bought the T5 90, which drained in a few days, and I took it back to Autozone and convinced them to refund me so I could have AAA bring me a battery and have their warranty cover me if I get stuck somewhere… The AAA tow provider comes out, says I don’t have a Size 99 battery so

I’ve had 7 great reliable years out of my 2017 Titanium Energi, until Tues night I tried to drive home from a show and it threw a SHIFT SYS Fault error, refused to go into gear. Towed it home, next morning it started throwing additional errors about Pre-Collision Detection, AdvanceTrac, Uphill Assist. Some googling suggested it could be bad 12V battery despite onboard electrical coming online and motor kicking on. Took the battery to Autozone, it tested bad so I bought a new one. It was the original Motorcraft factory battery, figured 8 years is a pretty good run! Shifter works again, other errors disappeared after a couple on/off cycles. Drive maybe 100 miles WThF just fine, nowhere Sat.

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I’ve had 7 great reliable years out of my 2017 Titanium Energi, until Tues night I tried to drive home from a show and it threw a SHIFT SYS Fault error, refused to go into gear. Towed it home, next morning it started throwing additional errors about Pre-Collision Detection, AdvanceTrac, Uphill Assist. Some googling suggested it could be bad 12V battery despite onboard electrical coming online and motor kicking on. Took the battery to Autozone, it tested bad so I bought a new one. It was the original Motorcraft factory battery, figured 8 years is a pretty good run! Shifter works again, other errors disappeared after a couple on/off cycles. Drive maybe 100 miles WThF just fine, nowhere Sat.

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I bought a Rasp Pi 4 to upgrade my RetroPie setup, and I'm wondering if it could also handle running Mycroft while playing games, or if I'm going to need to dedicate the old Rasp Pi3 to it? It'd be nice to save the old Pi3 for a different project if I can get away with sharing the Pi4.

I've had same 9 crushes set for a while, decided I should switch it up so I removed a few, but now it won't let me add any new ones to the open slots. I get an error message "It's not you, It's us - something went wrong and were working to make it better". It's not the once per 24 hour thing, and I can still add IG followers. I've tried a few different friends including one of the ones I just removed to free up slots.

Anyone else having luck adding FB Crushes? If so are you Apple or Android?

Seems like I might have a dead battery (or at least I hope its that simple/cheap). Had it 2 months with no issue, drove fine yesterday. Today the fob wasn't responding, and when I get in and push start I get no LCD/Dashboard, initially only some of the back lit steering, push button and shifter knob light up. Now only the shifter lights up which seems like a good sign of diminishing power (and not something worse)

Wanted to test the battery, but I can't get into the trunk because

1. Key Fob press doesn't respond (tried both fobs)
2. Dashboard trunk button doesn't respond
3. Despite being unlocked, button on trunk above license plate doesn't respond.
4. Door number key pad isn't working.

I