SpruceBug•

As a technician, I can tell you this is a wonderful animation of complete horseshit.

410
SufficientAnt6•

What is a good how-to for joining wires?

As a non-technician, all the EE in the world has done zilch for preparing me to replace my patio light fixture.

45
Judtoff•

NASA-STD-8739.3 is available online. If it's good enough for a rocket it's good enough for me. Alternatively the IPC-620 is good too. It won't tell you how to do the wiring, but rather what is acceptable or not. But if you find IPC-620 training for assemblers that'll show you how. -An engineer that was a technician for years.

102
SatisfactionAny20•

Came here for this, below is a more comprehensive one: NASA TECHNICAL STANDARD NASA-STD 8739.4A Change 4 https://standards.nasa.gov/sites/default/files/standards/NASA/A/4/nasa-std-87394a_w_change_4_0.pdf

15
Judtoff•

Thank you, that is the one I meant!

2
Doctor_Anger•

Am I crazy or does this NASA spec not cover wire-to-wire splice joints at all?

3
Judtoff•

Sorry you're right, it's out there though. I got the wrong standard. https://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/links/sections/407%20Splices.html

17
kempofight•

The chip in the rocked was good enough for then. Yet you did loom up that standard on a divice with more computing power then the whole daim rocked

1
Satinknight•

Most splice connectors are great. I'm a fan of Wago brand lever locks, but wire nuts are also fine.

21
Aromatic_Location•

I can never find where I put those in the lab and end up just soldering everything together 😂

7
SpruceBug•

Wago connectors are convenient but most of my service calls on brand new units consist of replacing all the Waco connectors with wire nuts. I'm not sure if there's an issue with tension or contact surface area but any unit outside or inside that's creates heat, Waco connectors just open circuits.

-8
essentialrobert•

I would literally throw you out of the plant for putting wire nuts on a machine.

15
Satinknight•

Huh. I just put a bunch of smart thermostats in with them, if the connections start failing at the heater I'll owe you a beer.

1
SpruceBug•

Linesman pliers and a wire nut, simple and reliable. Butt splices and Wago connectors generate a large percentage our office call backs. Soldering works well on sensitive controls but it is susceptible to constant vibrations from variable speed motors, even just from motors turning on. That also causes call backs. In areas of vibration and extreme temperatures, have to say insulated crimped terminals are better than wire nuts. Something like the TH450 from 3M will cover everything. I personally use the J215-8CR from KT.

2
Zulufepustampasic•

it is sad that you (as grown up EE) need a special preparation for replacing patio light fixture..

And I totally agree with SpruceBug... so much effort was put into the animation of such a prosaic job...

-2†
kalenxy•

Yeah I wouldn't suggest doing most of this.

20
dtp502•

Glad it wasn’t just me thinking this lol

For stranded wires if you get a proper solder joint, the wire will break before the solder joint does. Doesn’t matter what kind of twisting gymnastics you do before you make the solder joint.

Solid core wires I could see an argument for some of this.

17
chcampb•

Solid core are worse to do this with because your wire will experience more strain where it is kinked...

It's better just to... not use solid core for anything besides jumper wire.

9
dtp502•

Agree. I never use solid core wire for projects except jumper wires and house wiring.

5
csm51291•

By soldering, you create a break point... at the end of the solder joint. The stuff in the animation is actually a good idea and better for longevity of the joint. However, it is impossible to do practically and would not be worth the time or stress to attempt.

1
awdrii•

The teflon tape pencil trick seemed pretty cool though!

13
SpruceBug•

It is a clever idea, I tried it with an insulated screw driver to wrap tape around a water line from a concrete wall before, the tape is so slippery it wasted a lot of time. I ended up using the flathead to hold the tape to the threads as I wrapped, I'm sure there's a better way to do it. I'd certainly like to know a better way to do it! 😄

2
chcampb•

I was gonna say

If you tie them together they kink, introducing stress, and then it breaks.

The crimping one is the only one I would recommend, followed by just soldering them parallel and adjacent.

Better yet you should have zero strain on soldered wires anyways, that's a harness design problem.

8
tuctrohs•

And it just showed casual squishing with pliers, not proper crimping with a crimp tool.

Well animated garbage advice.

2
[deleted]•

How so? I'm not a technician. Curious why.

3
SpruceBug•

In most indoor settings, these connections may be perfectly adequate but in my line of work, they just don't last and will inevitably generate a service call or call backs. Copper hardens when worked. Bending and twisting excessively shortens the longevity of the connection. Depending on the environment like temperature fluctuations, vibrations from motors, or even fumes from solvents will eventually affect the conductor with time with either oxidation or outright breaking from brittleness. A simple wire nut can be used on wires that are not required to be pre twisted from manufacturer recommendations but even a pre twist doesn't have the severe loop of some of these animated connections. Even crimped connections can often be worse than a simple wire nut. I've seen in production facilities where new aluminum crimps will start a galvanic reaction and just deteriorate in the span of a month or so.

11
[deleted]•

Ah gotcha.

2
nevereven•

Aluminum crimps seems like such a bad idea for copper.

1
SpruceBug•

Agreed, but the business admin people love buying them.

2
Monkey_in_a_Tophat•

Yep, 100% agree. IMO intertwine, twist 3 times, solder it properly, snip any teeth, shrink wrap prefferred over taping. If done right the wire will break before the joint does.

3
DanKou237•

Like really, please just use WAGO or replace the whole wires…

2
SpruceBug•

Most facilities require uninterrupted conductors terminal to terminal. It really is the best option but can be a pain to run so much.

1
Cableperson•

Wire nuts are pretty cool

1
Autunite•

Is it really? If you have the time to make the mechanical joint. You should. Solder is the morter for a good mechanical bond. Just get a good shiny solder joint after them mechanical bond.

Though these splices are probably more for low power applications and nothing that connects to a wall. Leave that for electricians.

1
Shankar_0•

That last T-junction is not as easy as the video makes it look. I don't come across many circumstances that require it be wired that way, and it seems a bit excessive. I wonder how I would then insulate it in a way that didn't just end up with a big ol' booger of tape in a ball.

27

Even more fun is getting the insulation off of the wire in the middle without damaging the wire.

9
rseery•

I bought a used car and the genius who owned it before me installed a stereo and an alarm and did this shit ALL OVER THE PLACE. Like into the ignition harness and everything. Took me a week to undo it all and get it insulated properly. 😅

8

To add: low voltage wiring like car wiring harness do ok with simple insulation displacement crimps. Not only that, for stereos, it is so much easier to get an aftermarket adapter than to cut into a harness.

0
Shankar_0•

I've done it a few times. It's never this pretty, and you usually lose a few of the outer strands. I just can't think of a situation where I wouldn't just cut it and make a 3-way splice.

If this is a requirement, I think it would be in a cramped place that wouldn't give you the kind of space and slack on the cable that this is demonstrating.

5
baronvonhawkeye•

Possibly knob and tube?

1
Fatliner•

Will all these work… technically yes

Should you ever do these no. The only exception is if youre on a spaceship and need to make a splice then use the second one

21
Treehighsky•

Great video! That dual loop pull together and twist my dad taught me as a kid when we were soldering joints together on his boat as a way to prevent it from coming loose due to the vibrations. That way of making a joint is superb.

15
JGHFunRun•

Solder won't come loose from vibrations, unless you do a really trash job soldering

Edit: wait were you learning to solder on a boat and not soldering the boat? That sounds... interesting

8
Autunite•

Solder is just the mortar for a good mechanical bond. I make the mechanical bonds first

1
Cristalace•

Some of these techniques make my thumb, forefinger, and wrist hurt just looking at them..

14
RayTrain•

These all seem wonderfully unnecessary for basically everything ever

11
AFlawedFraud•

How is this over 90% upvoted on an EE sub

7
tucker_frump•

I've come across Knob and tube circuits spliced like some of these.

6
flamestamed•

Or just do it the right way

6
Sage2050•

Ain't nobody got time for all that nonsense

5
theloop82•

The western Union is definitely a legit way to solder two wires together, but I agree wago lever locks or terminal blocks are a great way to go for something that might need to be disconnected in the future

5
rcwagner•

why don't these kind of posts get blocked/deleted?

This isn't tiktok.

4
PJBthefirst•

beats me.

1
S3ERFRY333•

Damn I just twist and wrap it in a glob of electrical tape

3
tthrivi•

Greta video! Instead of animations, you’d think they could do this IRL…

2
gontikins•

I wonder if the creator of the video can.

1
rseery•

I’ve done that staggered splice with the three wires all my life.

2

I just twist them together and solder which works great for me

2
Osirus1156•

I like how they cut down the first one and magically it grows wires.

1
[deleted]•

This is awesome

1
DogShlepGaze•

Not really my thing - but, I find this oddly satisfying to watch.

1
0xdeadbeef6•

Just pig tail that shit together and add a blob of solder (or wire twist cap for high current/voltage connections) for good measure.

1