Joist spacing for purlins & drywall

My garage is about 20x20x8 feet with a hip roof. There are five 2x10" rafters spanning the garage. I just finished ripping out all of the sagging, falling-down drywall ceiling and also the walls so I can insulate and re-do it properly before the hot, muggy Houston summer is in full swing.

I don't know what properly is though.. I'm concerned about 3' and 4' spans between joists in the ceiling. know I should use purlins to mount the drywall to, but I don't know if the 3' spans will droop with 1x3" purlins.

I've considered running extra 2x10 beams to fill the gaps, but I would need to use two pieces and join them in the center somehow. There's no way to mount a one-piece joist without cutting into the hip roof to insert it. I could get 2x10x12 boards, cut to fit and join them with nail plates (not too trustworthy) or get 2x10x16 boards and make a lap joint in the center using a whole lot of nails and screws for support.

I'm not really sure what else to do - I've also considered running 2x4 supports above the purlins but I don't want to weigh down the 5 joists too much because I want to use the small area above for storage and blow-in insulation as well.

What would you do? Could the 1x3" purlins with 1/2" drywall across a 3' span be just fine?

Posted Mar 27, 2018, 1:33 PM UTC · edited

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BrainrootsOP•

I don't think they're insufficient for their original design intention, which was just to hold tension across the building for the hip roof. When you mentioned the blind header I went to snap a picture of it, and you're absolutely right about 5 joists supporting that much weight - it's badly deformed from the sheetrock that was hanging from it previously. https://imgur.com/a/v4iBY

So I guess there's a definitive answer - I cannot hang sheetrock off the existing joists, period, without reinforcement from additional joists and fixing the deformed blind header.

edit: just wanted to clarify, this is a 40 year old building that originally had open studs and ceiling as pictured, with less of the idiot electrical wiring. In the 80's-90's someone nailed up pegboard and plywood to the walls, then sometime in the last 10 years an idiot installed 3/8" drywall over everything, including across the 3 and 4 foot spans between joists as a ceiling.

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Yareaaeray•

I have 5/8” drywall on 2x4 strapping (purlins) on trusses that are 4’ on center, and it is fine.

Your 2x10s might be overspanned though for that weight. My trusses took it into account.

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BrainrootsOP•

That makes sense. Thanks for giving me a real world example. How far apart were the centers on your strapping?

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Yareaaeray•

24” o.c.

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decaturbob•

1x3s not sufficient as 3/4" lumber just doesn't hold drywall screws worth crap, so I would rethink that

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BrainrootsOP•

Miscellaneous drywall articles suggest to do this instead of going direct to the joists. They say the joists will flex and cause the drywall to be uneven. I don't really understand it, because that's the only way I've ever seen it done, but I've never seen it done across such large gaps either until I saw this droopy garbage the former homeowner left me.

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decaturbob•

I would use at least 2x4, even a 2x6 as the purlins must have a connection to transfer the loads to the "rafters"...a 1x3 will not do it.

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BrainrootsOP•

They would be installed perpendicular to the rafters, not in parallel, so as to directly transfer the load to the rafters.

An example, not mine. http://digikids.us/88-captivating-garage-ceiling-sagging-photo-designs/garage-ceiling-sagging-water-damaged-drywall-ceiling-removed/

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decaturbob•

2 screw connections thru a 1x3 into a rafter is no way sufficient to carry the weight of the dry wall it will be supporting...just saying its a question of holding power and the 1x3 splintering

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