Comprehensive Weed Control Guide (Cool Season Turf)

So you have weeds in your lawn and you want to get rid of them, but don't know where to start? Here's a guide for controlling weeds in your turf.

Tools you'll need:

1.) Sprayer, with a fantip nozzle. Frankly I can't say enough about the Sprayer's Plus battery operated sprayers. I have a 2 gal one and love it. However some of you might not want to spend 100 bucks on a sprayer.

Cheapest option: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Scotts-2-Gal-Multi-Use-Sprayer-190499/300259167

You can also get a slightly higher quality sprayer if you don't mind pumping for between 30 - 50 bucks at the big box stores. Try to get one that you can also get a fan-tip nozzle for. On most of those between that price point you can swap out the wand or tip with a replacement wand/tip that has a fantip.

2.) Surfactant.

While baby shampoo works in a pinch, in some cases you can't/shouldn't use it with certain herbicides, and it doesn't work as well in my experience.

https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Surfactant-Herbicides-Non-Ionic/dp/B004XDHRCE (Just go ahead and buy the big bottle. It lasts forever (5 - 10 years.)

3.) General broadleaf herbicide.

This is going to be your primary method of weed control. Try to get a 3 way blend. It will typically have 2-4-D, Dicamba, and Mecoprop-p. I prefer to get the concentrate types, either dry or liquid. For general use I try to not get the ones with Quinclorac (anything that says "With Crabgrass control.")

some options: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ortho-Weed-B-Gon-32-oz-Weed-Killer-Concentrate-0420050/205697164

https://www.amazon.com/PBI-Gordon-652400-Killer-20-Ounce/dp/B001PCRKDC/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=speedzone&qid=1555855056&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-1

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Spectracide-40-oz-Weed-Stop-for-Lawns-Concentrate-Lawn-Weed-Killer-HG-96623/307431046

4.) Specialist BroadLeaf weed control.

This is going to be used on any hard to kill broad leaf weeds. This is going to be a weed control product that only contains triclopyr. Typically you can find it in Weed-b-Gon Clover and Oxilis control. However it's cheaper by the ounce at the same concentration if you can find their Woody weeds/ivy control. ( I usually find it at Ace.) This should not be your primary form of weed control.

Cheapest per application: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/lawn-care/weed-and-vegetation-killers/72080

Easiest to find: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/lawn-care/weed-and-vegetation-killers/7102908

5.) Grassy weed control (for lawns) This is going to be Quinclorac. Yes you can get it mixed in with your basic broad leaf, but you have a limited number of times that you can apply Quinclorac throughout the year, and I'd rather use it when I need it, rather than waste some of those applications killing Dandelions.
https://www.amazon.com/Quinclorac-Selective-Herbicide-Equivalent-quali-1014/dp/B006LAVM3W/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2NOELQ5QR8LBM&keywords=quinclorac&qid=1555855546&s=lawn-garden&sprefix=quinclor%2Clawngarden%2C153&sr=1-1

(one bottle of this will most likely last you 5+ years.)

6.) Tenacity. Tenacity is a must for a DIY. You are going to look at the price and shy away from it. Let me tell you right now, this product is extremely useful for controlling grassy type weeds, plus it can act as a pre-emegent that is safe for new grass. One bottle will last you a long, long time.

7.) Optional: Round Up Gel.

Now the actual guide:

So you have weeds, and you want them dead. The first thing you need to do is know your weather for a 3 day window. Weed control only works when the weeds are actively growing, so keep an eye on your highs and lows when you plan to apply.

Typically you are going to apply them 24 - 48 hours after a mow, when the highs are under 85 degrees and the lows are above 65 degrees. (freedom units.)

Around 80% of the typical broadleaf weeds will be controlled by the broad leaf weed controls listed in (3.). Typically with 1 application. For best results use it with a surfactant, a fantip nozzle, and don't apply it when you are going to get rain for at least 24 hours.

Hard to Kill: If you have a hard-to-kill broad leaf weed you will still follow the above step. However 10 - 15 days after the application you will hit it again with Herbicide (4.) again with a surfactant, and with a fantip nozzle. Check on the weeds again in 10 - 15 days, if they are still alive and not dying/dead, one more application of (3) will finish it off.

Grass type weeds: Typically most of the grass type weeds you are going to be battling is going to be Crabgrass. Quinclorac will handle that no problem. A good pre-emergent program at the spring will also help. Again you are going to want your Surfactant and fantip nozzle for the application.

For harder to kill grass weeds you are going to want to include a rotation of Tenacity similar to how the Hard to Kill section went. Tenacity takes a long time to work. You typically won't see results until day 10 or so. Wait 20 days after application to either reapply Tenacity or finish it off with Quinclorac. I have had success using this method for Bentgrass, Orchard Grass, Johnson Grass, and it worked on a small infestation of quack, though it took a few applications. It also worked on about 50% of my clumping wild Fescue.

For really hard to kill grass weeds: Round up Gel applied with a Q-tip to the blades of grass will finish off any stragglers. I'm not responsible for your neighbors thinking you are crazy though.

POA - Tenacity will work to control it, but you need to catch it early enough in the season. Typically I do a Tenacity treatment in early the spring in areas that I end up having to seed that spring. I will use the remaining Tenacity to hit any areas that -Might- be POA. Typically it's going to be areas of your turf that is a lighter green. If it's not POA or Bent, nothing will happen, if it is, in 10 - 15 days the areas you hit will turn white.

Glossary: A standard broad leaf weed is one that you can control. A hard to kill broad leaf weed is one that your Application of (3.) doesn't kill.

A grassy weed is a weed that has grass like properties. Typically long thin blades.

POA is an annual bluegrass that germinates over the winter and shows up in spring. It generally dies off in the summer leaving bare spots.

Hopefully you guys will find this guide useful.

Posted Apr 21, 2019, 2:30 PM UTC

13747
Brfox20035b•

I appreciate you taking the time to share your information. I'm starting my first spring as a homeowner, and the info you guys provide has been essential to getting me started.

I should really thank many people from this subreddit. The help has been great.

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[deleted]•

[deleted]

-31
randiesel•

What on earth are you talking about?

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Man_Fried•

Dude read the room.

7
AskASillyQuestion•

Wait, what?

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[deleted]•

[deleted]

1
GrayZeus7b•

This is good. I've been trying to put it together and figure it out over the last few years gathering info where I can. I typically spray 2,4D and have round up, MSMA, and quinclorac (I've also used MSM, though I couldn't figure out what it was supposed to kill) to use as well and had spotty results mainly bc I don't know what to spray ana when to spray it to get the best results without killing my Bermuda. To compound this, I have a pull behind sprayer that is, for lack of a better word, a piece of shit and I have a hard time covering my entire yard with a handheld (though I have a nice one).

If that wasn't enough, I'm no expert on weeds, but I think I have finally figured out what exactly I'm trying to kill for the most part.

My yard typically looks immaculate throughout the year but it can always be better and I think that's probably what we're all here trying to do.

Any info is appreciated. TIA

Edit: someone gave me platinum for this? If that wasn't a mistake, thank you. I never thought I'd be given an award for a comment where I basically admit that I don't know shit.

9
eZGjBw1Z6a•

I've also used MSM, though I couldn't figure out what it was supposed to kill

Metsulfuron Methyl is often not recommended for cool-season turf since it will kill most cool-season grass at higher rates. You have to be very careful with it. I used it to kill Ficaria Verna in my yard and it also killed all of my grass. The only thing that would grow back in those spots until the next season was nimblewill (a warm-season grassy weed). I should have just used glyphosate, at least I could have seeded sooner.

2
GlobalSouth•

Great post. This should be stickied to the top of this sub.

5
double_e5•

Pretty good guide, but I’ve never seen Tenacity control quackgrass and it isn’t labeled to do so. It will turn it white, but in my experience always recovers. I also can’t imagine it’s effective at killing any type of fescue at the labeled rates.

4
peytoncurry•

Doesn’t Tenacity turn even the “good grass” white if applied rather heavily? I’ve applied Tenacity as a pre-emergent in a pinch and most of my grass that was healthy turned white until it grew and was mowed. Great guide though.

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double_e5•

It definitely does if applied heavy at seed down. Mature grass doesn’t seem to be affected much at all.

1
EngineerDaveOP6b•

That's why I recommend using it in combination with Quinclorac. This method is designed to stress the plant which makes it more susceptible to other herbicides that target grass type weeds. Unfortunately for us MSMA is no longer approved for home use, which was the go-to for removing it. The method above is the only way I've been able to achieve control without going full phosphate. While not perfect is the best tool that we as home owners have unfortunately.

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double_e5•

Quinclorac isn’t labeled for quackgrass either. I’m not saying you didn’t have success with it. Just that I wouldn’t go into using the two in combination expecting results with it. I also prefer to use tenacity on weeds it is known to control as the yearly limit of use is fairly low.

Certainty is labeled to control quackgrass, but I’d be too chicken shit to use it with how harsh it’s reported to be on desirable grasses.

1
EngineerDaveOP6b•

I understand your concern. Neither are rated for it, but I've had success with the combo spread out over a period of time. I stumbled upon the method while having some quinclorac left over after treating crabgrass, when around 15 days earlier I had treated the back yard with tenacity. Had some extra left over and saw promising results.

1
Jonmike316•

For points 3-6, are these safe for lawns or you must really aim it at the weeds. Also, when will pets and kids be safe to play on the lawn?

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EngineerDaveOP6b•

Everything listed is for control of weeds in turf grass, so it's safe to get on turf. Just follow the label.

For pets - Don't let them eat the grass until after the first rain. Other than that they should be safe after 3 - 6 hours. Same goes for kids.

3
buttgers6b•

Warm season grass doesn't like some of that stuff though. That entire list is only safe for cool season grass

1
EngineerDaveOP6b•

Correct. That's why I labeled it "(Cool Season Turf)". Someone else will need to do a warm season turf guide.

2
All_Cars_Have_Faces5b•

Really, just aim at the weeds. i.e. don't spray every inch of your lawn unless that particular inch needs it.

Will it hurt the grass? No, will it hurt your pocketbook?

Is there the potential for runoff or overspray? Yes.

2
futureBiscuits•

Post saved. I really appreciate you taking the time to write this up for us.

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ginobro856a•

If you don’t have a sprayer or are intimidated by one, I recently spot sprayed my whole yard using an empty 1 gallon lawn weed killer bottle that came premixed with the battery operated gun attached. I had great results. I poured in the appropriate amount of weed killer and mixed in water and surfactant. It was a bit time consuming, but I really only sprayed the weeds instead of all around.

3
_PawneeGoddess_•

This is an awesome guide thank you!

I’m a new homeowner so bare with me if this is a dumb question, anyway, after you kill the weeds when do I fertilize and reseed? Is it too late to reseed or should I just wait to do it in the fall? How long should I wait before mowing the lawn?

2
elmetal•

same question

1
TheTrooper74•

Great info. Lawn newbee so this info really helps!

1
cujo1957b•

Thanks for this post. It'll definitely come in handy as a relatively new home owner trying to improve my lawn. I've read your comments in other posts as well and you've always provided very useful info. So thanks for that.

Would you recommend the same treatment for weeds in areas where you don't have grass or plants you're trying to avoid killing? For example, cracks in concrete driveway or sidewalk. I was thinking a cheaper way might be to just dump saltwater into the cracks but not sure how effective it would be compared to these chemicals meant for weed control.

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EngineerDaveOP6b•

For crack-weeds, just use a torch or roundup.

1
cujo1957b•

Thanks. I like the torch idea. Got me excited now!

1
rwhankla8b•

Great stuff here. Saved this post, I’ll be referencing it quite a bit

1
lanmansa5b•

Dude, you always have the best posts on here thanks for sharing this! A lot of people new to this sub will find this to be pretty much everything they will need to know about weed control in one easy to find post.

I can personally vouch for that Spectracide brand broadleaf concentrate. I think it works better than some of the other brands because the concentrations are higher, and at a cheaper price and they also make a 4-way version that contains quinclorac and sulfentrazone which is great for sedge control as well.

I'll definitely be getting some Tenacity this year for the first time, I'm doing a huge reno in my yard this year (as I'm sure you've heard me mention before in the last couple of weeks) and I still want to try to knock out some of those grassy weeds.

I put down some pre-emergent a couple weeks ago (Prodiamine 65 wdg) so that should hopefully control a majority of them. But I'm wondering what this broader leaf grass type weed is, sometimes it shows up with purple-ish leaves, I'm not sure if it's Quack? Or is this going to be easier to control just with Tenacity? Check out this video I made of it at 1:10. https://youtu.be/rHt8DNeu3jg?t=69 maybe you know what this is? I'm hoping it's pretty common. Oh yeah, I recently started a YT channel a few weeks ago. Grassdaddy actually suggested I should document my progress this year so here we are lol.

Anyway, thanks again for sharing this stuff! Very helpful!

1
EngineerDaveOP6b•

Could be Quack/Goosegrass hard to tell at the younger age. Good luck!

2
lanmansa5b•

Well, I'll hit it with my 4-way and Tenacity mixed for when I go at the weeds later next month when they are growing more and see what happens. I'll for sure post an update though, I have a ton of content planned for that channel this summer! That video was from 2 weeks ago you should see it now that the temps have gone up and after my dethatching. It's looking fantastic so far.

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lanmansa5b•

I took some more pictures of the weeds coming in. Apparently this stuff is not stopped by Prodiamine. It's a bit more mature now in some areas, and I think I have two different kinds of weedy grasses coming in from what I can tell. Maybe this helps with a bit of a better positive ID? https://imgur.com/a/Dmr0SKa

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EngineerDaveOP6b•

Hmmm. Some of those look like wild clumping fescue, and one looks a lot like quackgrass (uh oh!) Prodiamine is a pre-emergent and will only target new weeds from growing, if they already exist in your turf it won't do anything but possibly slow the growth if it spreads via rhizomes.

You are basically going to have to follow the steps in the "hard to kill" grassy weed control section to have a shot at nixing it. I've only had a 50/50 success rate with wild fescue using that method, but it does pull out pretty easy, rootball and all if the soil is moist.

So the theory behind using Tenacity and then Quinclorac to control undesirable grass types, even those that aren't listed is this:

As long as Tenacity shows bleaching 10 - 15 days after application, it has a chance to work. Quinclorac is a synthetic plant hormone that causes the plant to burn itself out. By using Tenacity to damage the grass's ability to produce food first, the application of Quinclorac would force the plant to consume its remaining energy reserves that are stored in the root of the plant. The follow up Tenacity application would then damage any shoots that manage to spring up from this hopefully preventing recovery.

This should be a targeted application hitting those areas specifically, and should not be blanket applications. Your coverage area should be the target grass and about 6" or so around the surrounding area. If after your second quinclorac application it's not completely eradicated you are going to have to switch to either roundup gel via a q-tip or small brush, or spray normal round up on the affected areas (it will kill any other grass it contacts.) Good luck.

3
lanmansa5b•

Thanks again for the thorough reply! Now I have a game plan to attack this. Hoping I see some success with this! Would the spectracide 3 way herbacide with quinclorac work do you think or would I need to get the straight quinclorac and hit it will the full rate app to see success? I forget the spectracide percentages but I think its pretty low since its consumer grade concentrate, although it's cheap so that's the appeal. Maybe I'll just mix it double strength lol.

1
ImYoungxD7b•

#1 sprayer - You can get 1 gallon for $7 at Walmart

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Eliminator-1-Gallon-Sprayer/759677576

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EngineerDaveOP6b•

Yeah there are cheaper ones out there. I included the cheapest one I could find that came with a fan-tip nozzle.

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[deleted]•

[deleted]

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EngineerDaveOP6b•

I'd probably start with the general weed control if you've got some other weeds in the lawn and then targeted approach for sedge if you weren't able to clear it up.

2
stagshore•

Is there a specific time of yr to spray each of these? Or just base it on the 60-85 temps, size of weed, and whether you're still waiting 2 weeks in for KBG to grow from overseeding....

1
EngineerDaveOP6b•

Temps and the weeds I am wanting to control. For example for my zone it would be a little silly to spray Quinclorac down right now as we haven't seen any crabgrass yet.

1
hazeldazeI•

Do you have a guide for warm season grass?

1
EngineerDaveOP6b•

Sorry, my area of experience is in Cool Season Turf such as bluegrass, fescue and rye. Hopefully someone will do the same for warm season turf!

2
Focker_•

u/tippr gild

1
_ReCover_•

Thanks OP!!!

1
Dexinthecity•

As a newbie this is very helpful and gives me a place to start.

I don’t know much about lawn care yet but our new house has a backyard that looks to have fescue and some bluegrass?

https://i.imgur.com/3H3yFWu.jpg

Anyway I’m trying to restore/care for it and I’m not quite sure where to start. We’re in zone 9a, Antelope Valley in California.

We have babies and dogs and I was wondering how I should tackle this?

1
EngineerDaveOP6b•

There are some organic weed control products out there. They do require around 1.5 - 2x the applications to establish control than the ones listed above.

You'll have to read the labels for safety guidelines, but typical rule of thumb for pet and child safety:

1.) Stay off of the lawn until it dries.

2.) If something is going to eat the grass, if you can, stay off of it for 24 hours, apply irrigation 6 - 12 hours after application dries, and then again the following day and wait for it to dry.

3.) Wear proper PPE, and wash hands after spraying before touching either.

Your picture looks like it's a cool season blend which is pretty common, so the guide should work for you.

2
S_Nickels•

Can you mix all these together ? Or spray them separate ?

1
EngineerDaveOP6b•

Some you can mix. I prefer to keep them separate to stress the weed out longer for better control. You'll have to read the labels if you want to start tank mixing. They'll provide you a list of compatible herbicides.

3