Traction Alopecia and You: what it is, and what you can do about it
What is Traction Alopecia?
Traction alopecia is a form of hair loss affects 1/3 of women of African descent. This is caused by many things that black women tend to do with their hair more often eg:
- braids & cornrows
- improper wig use
- Ultra-alkanine chemical relaxers
- Tight ponytails or buns
Traction alopecia usually starts in women at the temples leading to an M shaped hairline, although it can affect the back hairline (just above the "kitchen").
Examples of TA on Alexandra Burke, Naomi Campbell, Kim Kardashian
Women with 4c hair seem to suffer most of all, as there is a lot more pressure to look presentable in a way that can be at odds with scalp health.
A visual warning sign for traction alopecia is the prescence of hair casts up to a week after the protective style is first installed
Hair casts indicated by arrows
The good news is that is can be reversible with products at home if the damage is not too far gone. A positive indication is when the scalp still has some hair, and still looks like healthy skin, rather than the characteristic shiny surface of scarred skin.
How to reverse traction alopecia at home
There are only two proven menthods to reverse traction alopecia: Minoxidil, which is thought to dilate the blood vessels at the site of your hair roots, and Microneedling, which increases the amount of growth factor in the scalp.
The best news is they work even better together! The study for both of them at the same time has only been done for Androgenetic alopecia (male pattern baldness), but the results are that microneedling increases the efficacy of minoxidil by a factor of 10. That's huge!
Methodology
Here are some videos I found on youtube of women growing their edges back through dermarolling and through minoxidil. This includes the process and how to do it safely.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14T2OOdYK-o
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spUrgvSCMqA
Two surgical trichologists explaining how to use dermarolling
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEynrVyBV6o
A youtuber and trichologist explaining traction alopecia in black women
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pvqfeymZ24k
The average neededle size seems to be 1.0mm with the average microneedling frequency of a week. Results can take up to 3 months, so it's recommended that you take photographs to compare.
How to prevent Traction Alopecia in the first place
As the old saying goes, prevention is better than cure. Women with afro hair can reduce the occurence or severity of traction alopecia by braiding looser braids along the perimeter of the hairline.
If your hair is worn loosely, minimise your use of tight hair bands for ponytails - use crocodile clips instead. KimmayTube is a fantastic youtuber for hairstyles that prioritise scalp health.
Let me know if there's anything else you would like to add!
Posted Dec 27, 2020, 5:57 PM UTC · edited
A good indication of when braids are too tight is when I get tiny red bumps in my hairline. They can sometimes be a bit itchy. If you want to keep your edges, listen to those signs; and loosen the braids. And stay away from that hairstylist, even if it's your mom. :)
What do you think of hair transplants for edges that are too far gone ?
Edit: I found a Korean study that proved peppermint essential oil to be superior to minoxidil. PEO + dermarolling could be an amazing combo as well.
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/270966711_Peppermint_Oil_Promotes_Hair_Growth_without_Toxic_Signs
You can download the pdf.
I agree about the bumps, but sometimes the inflammation isn't as obvious right away for me
How long do you keep your braids in. If I go longer than 2 weeks I notice breakage at the hairline.
I change over the braids every 2 weeks at the front hairline. Keeps the buildup to a minimum as well