I understand the obvious reasons, like cosmetic flaws. Are there any other less obvious ones? Or maybe even obvious reason that I'm not thinking of?
They're so much less expensive than buying a brand new guitar, so I don't see why not.
Posted Oct 9, 2011, 1:16 AM UTC
I buy all my gear second-hand. Chips and dings? No problem. I'm onboard. Cracked necks that have been repaired? I steer clear of those.
Bad repairs that have been hidden by a repaint. Warped/twisted necks, although sometimes a warp can be coaxed out. And hardware being misrepresented, namely a guitar being advertised with, for example, 2 DiMarzios, but in reality it's just the stock humbuckers.
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cosmetic flaws don't matter, at least to me. does it play awesome? that is all that matters. 1.touch/feel/playabilty 2. sound 3.looks 4. the deal
That's what I was wondering. I bought a used guitar, and also it has a little bit of a chip, it gives it more historical flavor.
I'd say cosmetic marks are a good reason TO buy a guitar. It's all about craftsmanship and most times the more money you spend the better the guitar. Used guitars for $400/500 are $700/800 worth of craftsmanship, and that's a good deal!
I buy used, the most important is to shop around and if you can, see it in person. Look for neck/fretboard repairs or cracks. Otherwise, I feel like unless a chunk of wood has been taken out of the body (IE: tremolo routing) it should be ok. I have a hard time justifying buying new, especially under these economic times. It's a buyers market and if you got the cash, you can find some of used guitars for a price that won't break the bank.
The problem that I have the most with buying used gear is the price. While it is possible to find a good deal if you look long enough, I see a lot people asking way too much for their instruments. $850 Teles when they are $999 brand new etc. Buying brand new also guarantees that it is not stolen and a stolen guitar can be confiscated regardless of where you bought it.
Are there any other less obvious ones
If you know what you are doing, then no, no reasons against it... depending on how much you are spending you might want to take someone with you who really knows guitars well.
I think often people sell an instrument because it just doesn't feel right to them... that can be a good thing in case you find out you love it or it can be a bad thing because they bought a lemon and now want to pass it on. So basically, the same as with buying brand new guitars applies: play it and honestly feel and just listen, unplugged and plugged and see if it honestly (GAS and brand-name-awe aside) makes you go "wow!!!" when feeling and playing it - then it is a good one, regardless of brand, price and make.
Nope. If it's quality and the price is nice, what's to lose?
That's what I was thinking, but I was wondering if it was as straight forward as I thought. It was.
Play it.
Hold the bridge up to your eye and look down the neck on both sides. Should look nice and straight and flat across the strings.
Go round a second hand guitar place and play the cheapest you can find and the more expensive. See if you can tell the difference.
Check the back of the neck and where it joins the body. Should be no damage.
If you're buying electric then you need to play it through a good amp, check all the switches and pots. Watch out for crackle. Same thing though, do this with many in a second hand shop and see what problems you can find.
And you still might get sold a pup. Just be careful. If they are high pressure just walk away.
Get the action pretty low, see if truss rod turns relatively easily, play chromatics all up and down, listen for buzz, dead spots (basses often have noticeable ones). If the action is high, don't try to lower it a lot, put a capo on, listen for buzz. You can play a bass or low 3 guitar strings unplugged with your chin on the upper horn and really hear how the wood resonates. (Very imp: Broken truss rod can't be repaired, AFAIK, so 1/8 or 1/4 turn at a time, max. One tech i use will pressure teh neck over his knee to reset the wood. Use a good allen key with a T-handle. Have the seller adjust action, not you.)
Look how well the nut is filed, whether the strings follow fretboard radius , slots are angled properly toward tuning peg and not too deep. Replacing those is $65+ for bone nut. Bridge saddles bottomed out and you wan t to lower action? Probably have to shim neck, cost is for full setup. Action too low for your taste? I think it's possible to shim a nut up, and again check bridge saddles have room up.
Ask your tech how much repairs cost. Replacing a pot or tuner: cheap. Replacing pup: not bad. Fret job for a bass: $150+ for recrown, a lot more for new frets.
Also look for headstock repairs. Every Guitar center receives at least a dozen Epiphones every year where the headstock breaks off in shipping, (no case, they're shipped in flimsy boxes UPS) and they sell em for $80 or so.
Cracks around the neck/body joint of a bolt-on are usually cosmetic in the finish but can go into the wood, look carefully. The joint shouldn't have any visible gaps or huge shims.
All of these things (this gtani fella knows his/her potatoes)
Most guitar sales people.