2001 Corolla theft damage. Punched out diver door lock and ignition lock cylinder, cracked ignition casting. More details inside.
imgur.com/a/IHDf3#0Posted Dec 13, 2011, 12:54 PM UTC
Posted Dec 13, 2011, 12:54 PM UTC
To the salvage yard!
and just yank what i need? how do i get the keys to match up?
You'll have to use the keys from that vehicle. If its a nice yard, they should have them.
I just inherited the car after helping previous owner find a newer car to replace it with. My first car :). I am quite knowledgeable about cars but i have no clue as to how to get all the parts I need, or the parts I will need for the repair, The plastic steering column cover is intact. The driver door handle is also cracked around where the lock goes in.
do I need a new casting that the lock cyl goes into? or can this one be taped up and used, how does making the keys match up between doors and ignition work? will my driver door and ignition be one lock and the trunk and passenger door be another?
If I get new locks from a junkyard do i still need the dealer to match keys? or should i just get matched locks to the current key set?
Thankfully the casting the lock cyl goes in for the ignition can be unscrewed safely from the steering column with a few bolts, so no airbag concerns.
since the car can not be locked and can be started by anybody I need to fix this fast! I do have a safe place i have it stored for the time being though, but any car in this condition is a liability.
Thanks for the help Car Talk!
I am quite knowledgeable about cars
I'm gonna let this one go.
do I need a new casting that the lock cyl goes into? or can this one be taped up and used,
No, you can't use that. You need an ignition lock cylinder.
In fact, all the parts you need are available pretty much anywhere, from the dealership, from a parts store, online (rockauto.com and others).
If you don't know how to key lock cylinders, simply buy the new parts and bring them along with your current key (that operates the locks you won't need to change) to a locksmith and get them keyed to it. Then install the parts.
I do know a lot about cars but i have never had to fuck with locks before.
My point was that if you want to come in asking for advice and saying that you are "quite knowledgeable about cars", you shouldn't be asking such basic questions. Like can I tape a cast pot metal ignition lock cylinder back together and/or where do I buy one. These are very basic questions.
You can't have it both ways: you need help with a basic repair, or you are "quite knowledgable about cars." But not both.
I am quite good at programming, but when I started doing network programming I needed help I asked a lot of basic network programming question. If you don't have any experience working with something then of course your going to ask basic questions. He works with brakes, engines, and suspension. Never once went near a lock, he was asking basic questions so he knew what he was doing as you know he's never worked on one before. Get off your high horse and answer the damn question instead of wasting his time.
You can't have it both ways: you need help with a basic repair, or you are "quite knowledgable about cars." But not both
Wow your arrogant.
You're kind of a douchebag.
Basic to you, I work on engines, brakes, suspension, if i have never worked on locks because I have never needed to.
I give you credit man you are a trooper. r/cartalk is lucky to have you.
After it was stolen it was abandoned a block away from the parking lot.
Car-Part is what you need. Just get a whole column. You will have a different key for the different locks, unless you want to pay to match them. Be aware, usually stolen cars have significant hidden damage. I would be suspect of the engine, most stolen cars get over-revved, since they're....stolen. Do not tape any cast aluminum piece, it's a waste of time. You could also find a salvage that will sell the entire lockset, then they will all match.
How does one over-rev a fuel injected automatic car short of downshifting it at speed? And even then most cars will upshift regardless of what gear you select to prevent damage.
uh, not true? While a 2001 Corolla has a rev limiter, it's still high enough to cause engine damage. If you drive bouncing your engine off the rev limiter, it will be short lived. Also, how does a car upshift a manual, or even an automatic that is not computerized. When you move the lever on an automatic transmission in a 2001 Corolla, you are moving a spool valve that controls what gears can be engaged. The torque converter will not release at high RPM either, since it's a fluid coupling that approaches 1:1 as RPM increases. So, how exactly is this car going to upshift? And that rev limiter, it's well in the damage zone. Redline is 6000rpm, Rev Limiter is set around 7000.
Automatic transmissions have had features which keep you from downshifting at speed for a while now. My 79 Chevy pickup won't go into 1st gear, even if you manually select it, if the RPMs are too high.
This feature can be removed by changing some valving, but stock its there for safety.
Manufacturers do not set rev limiters past the point of engine damage. That would be ludicrous.
Just because they painted a red strip on your tach before it gets to the limiter doesn't mean its causing engine damage. Should you be running around bouncing off the limiter all the time? Of course not. But it's highly unlikely to cause any engine damage if done occasionally.
Every modern spool valve I've seen has an integral bypass to perform this function. Transmissions that don't include bypasses are things like 3-speed TorqueFlights, not the kinds of things you find in modern vehicles.
Oh, that's right, you're an automotive expert. Oh wait... I have an Automotive engineering degree and am an ASE Master Tech. Oh Shit, I might know what the fuck I'm talking about.
those corolla engines are fairly durable and engines typically last longer than people want to keep the car. A lot of sports cars get redlined a lot at tracks and still hold up. I have overreved my acura integra with a 7200 rpm redline to 10k and it has held up 50k miles since without a problem
Did you do it once or did you steal the car and joy ride it.
what do you mean the whole collumn? is that the only way to get the casting?
The whole steering column. Salvage yards typically don't sell little bits like that solo, you would have to buy the whole column. You could also try the dealer, they will be able to locate that part for you solo, but it'll usually cost you. Plus, by getting the whole column you will get any extra parts you may need. On the cheap, you could get that car running and driving, then you can assess if it is worth keeping it, and you can make it secure quickly. You'd end up with 2-3 keys, one for the drivers door and ignition, (If you're lucky), and one for the other doors and trunk. 3 keys if the drivers door doesn't match the column. Then you could have them all rekeyed to match
re-keyed is through a locksmith?