Source
r/Mountaineering•
LucidityX

Mt. Saint Helens Beta/Gear Questions

Hey guys,

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I'm hoping to climb Saint Helens the 8th or 9th of this week and had a few questions.

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I was initially planning on just doing hiking boots/crampons before yesterdays storm, but now it seems as if the mountain got 2-3 feet of fresh powder. I leave the PNW on April 11th and probably won't have the chance to re-visit for 6+ years. Given how iconic MSH is to me I'm really hoping to finally gain the summit before I lose the opportunity.

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Before I ask my questions:

- I've never skinned before but am comfortable on resort double blacks.

- I'm asking all of this assuming Avy risk is able to mellow out with the few calm days forecasted before I climb.

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So my questions are:

  1. Given that I'm climbing mid-week after a storm, what are the odds there is any sort of reliable bootpack?

  2. Would it be worth renting touring skis for a summit bid? (For context, my last failed attempt in Feb. had me breaking trail in shitty rental snowshoes and it was absolutely miserable)

  3. If I rent touring skis, do people tend to bring boots/crampons in their pack as a backup if I hit any really icy patches?

  4. Following up on #3 - Anything else I should know about how most people do their ski touring setups?

Posted Apr 4, 2022, 7:35 PM UTC

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[deleted]•

[deleted]

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LucidityXOP•

Yep I have permits for those days.

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I wasn't sure if touring boots were comfortable enough to hike in for prolonged periods of time, but it sounds like they are and it's not worth the weight penalty to bring hiking boots. Evo doesn't rent ski crampons but I'll see if I can shop around Seattle for other places that may rent them.

I'm hoping my BD Contact strap-on crampons will fit my touring boots that I end up renting.

1
taketaketakeslack•

It's almost guaranteed that any rental ski boots will be very uncomfortable with any kind of extended use unless you're very lucky. You'll have to be very onto it with taping any hot spots that start to develop to avoid blisters, and if you have wide feet you're probably going to have a very bad time! You'll still probably be able to suffer through a day, but bring some ibuprofen!

Also yes, BD Contact strap-on crampons will fit on any ski boot.

3
nf-films•

Unfortunately, I doubt the strap on crampons will fit. I CAMP strap on crampons and they twist off really easily. Getting C2 or ideally C3 crampons is a better bet. They shouldn't be that much to rent and will save you a lot.

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SmellLikeSheepSpirit•

When you say "resort double blacks" does that mean you haven't ridden BC? That would be my biggest concern. And going solo? And no mountaineering experience?
St helens has a low treeline so watch visibility fading. With only one set of eyes mistakes are more likely. Maybe consider making some wands just for back-up? What's your navigation suite of tools?

Skinning itself isn't rocket science, but it's more the ability to ad-lib when you're solo. And read the conditions. Think about your redundancy/repairs, ability to cope with problems like gear failure, injury, navigation, or questionable snowpack. St helens is a safe mountain, but it's not a resort.

Oh and to state the obvious, stay back from the crater after a storm. You can't tell if your on a cornise.

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LucidityXOP•

Correct, I haven't skied proper BC before. I do have enough mountaineering experience to where I'm comfortable with navigation & an ice axe/crampons, I've just never skinned.

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I also have attempted St. Helen's before and made it to ~6000 feet so I'm somewhat familiar with the worm flows route.

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SmellLikeSheepSpirit•

Ok, cool. I was more worried about the adaptability aspects that BC or mountaineering demands. Sounds like you're golden as long as you approach it more like mountaineering. Consider terrrain traps/route decisions rather than "sick line" and navigating while moving quickly

Watch some videos on the skinning techniques and even crosscountry on glide stepping. The kick step is a bit of chore at first.

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MORPHINEx208•
  1. I probably wouldn't count on a bootpack. I think it's also supposed to snow this next upcoming weekend as well. Of course that can change.
  2. Worth it is relative especially since you haven't skinned before. Generally I would say yes but the fact you are learning on the fly might make it more challenging. It's not the hardest thing in the world but it's not something I would want to learn on a summit bid with limited time.
  3. I don't think anyone would recommend bringing extra boots for crampons. Generally you want a one boot and one crampon solution. Assuming you use ski boots, find something crampon compatible. Fwiw, it's going to be most likely icey during certain stretches although this may vary depending on time of day.
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LucidityXOP•

That's super helpful, thanks.

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I think I'll give it a shot and rent touring skis then just bring boot crampons that'll work with the rental touring boots.

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Worried_Process_5648•

Check with the climbing rangers. A lot of fresh on top of a hard layer sounds like a recipe for avalanches.

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SmellLikeSheepSpirit•
  1. low to zero
  2. absolutely, St helens was my first "long" skin trip. It's perfect for skinning and skiing all the way to the car if the snowline is low
  3. on st helens after a snow? I wouldn't. I didn't because my 'pons didnt fit my snowboard boots and fuck carrying a second set of boots. I didn't miss them. You A/t guys get it easy as normal crampons generally fit your boots.
  4. practice gliding for efficiency, practice kick-turns and side hilling before you need it (normally only a few spots on st helens)
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matt800•

The forecast for Fri/Sat has significant snow. Also not sure how the road conditions would be. I don't think they plow after april 1st. I would try to find a different time to go. If you do go I'd be prepared for possible white out conditions.

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LucidityXOP•

Oh shoot, I’ve been following the weather forecast pretty closely but I had no idea about the plowing ending. Thanks for the heads up. That would really suck if that’s the reason I can’t give it one last go before leaving the PNW.

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matt800•

I saw that mentioned here: https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/giffordpinchot/recarea/?recid=64876 You could always call the local rangers and get more informed opinions too

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also this shows cloud cover in the forecast: https://www.meteoblue.com/en/weather/forecast/meteograms/mount-saint-helens_united-states_5809218

so probably low visibility if that forecast holds but you never know

1
MidCareerEngineer•

It hasn't been an iconic mountain since the top blew off. It's only slightly worth doing since it's a good mellow spring ski. Perhaps one of the most over rated climbs in the state. So to answer your questions...

No

Yes

YES

No comment.

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