My current (2022) fungal-safe skincare routine (with mini reviews - including Disrupt)

Skin type: Oily, sensitive (easily inflamed), acne-prone, minor-moderate PIH and PIE, very slow healing - and if course, prone to fungal acne

Age: 30

Climate: Hot and humid

A year ago I made my first post on this sub, FUNGAL SAFE PRODUCTS and routine.

The comments and messages I got from that post were really heartwarming, because struggling with malassezia, whether it's folliculitis ("fungal acne") or seborrheic dermatitis ("seb derm") is fucking FRUSTRATING 😂 And it can feel like this absolutely tragic, lonely cursed thing - like acne, but more confusing. As with having sensitive or very acne-prone skin, or allergies to common skincare ingredients, it also just sucks, not being able to use what feels like almost EVERY skincare product that's popular or trending or just interesting. It's like being left out 🤷🏽‍♀️ It was pretty cathartic to hear from people that the post gave them something, at least someplace to start. So they didn't feel like they were just thrown in the deep end of some unsolvable mystery.

Thankfully, since that post I've learned of more products (and new products have come out) that are malassezia safe. It's been great being a part of this community from the day I found it. So I wanted to keep paying it forward, make the struggle a bit easier if I could ☺❤

#Ingredient list checker I now suggest FolliculitisScout over Sezia. Isn't as easy on the eyes, but Sezia doesn't flag things like cetearyl alcohol, which as per the latest update on the legendary SimpleSkincareScience blog page on fungal-safe ingredients does feed the fungus. I will say - depends on where your skin is at. If your malassezia is mostly under control, cetearyl alcohol may be fine for you. As with everything in personal care - it's pretty personal 😂 YMMV!

This is my current fungal-safe skincare routine, with mini reviews! 😆

#Morning

🌸 Amazon Brand - Solimo Micellar Water *(₹199 for 200 ml) *

Unfortunately the unscented version (that I'm still using) is no longer available, and it's available in Wild Lily and Lemon scents, which I haven't personally used. I put this in a foaming pump bottle and use the foam on a DRY face. After massaging it it, I add water and massage a but more before rinsing. This technique is what I like for a gentle morning cleanse. I don't think it makes much difference whether I use the Solimo or the Garnier micellar water I mentioned in my previous post 🤷🏽‍♀️

🌸 DIY vitamin C "serum"

I use the Body Cupid aloe gel as a base, and store it in the fridge. The Body Cupid aloe gel is still my HG for skin and hair 😌❤ Here's a simplified explanation of how I make my DIY vitamin C. I personally think DIYing is the most logical solution to the instability of water-based vitamin C, but I understand many people don't wanna go through the trouble for one reason or another. The bare minimum you'd need to have by way of equipment, IMO, is measuring spoons and litmus paper, and besides, you may feel more secure using a product that's been formulated by experts. For me, personally, this works really well.

#or

🌸 Disrupt 10% Niacinamide + 1% Zinc (₹275 for 30ml)

I've been using this only a couple weeks, and I'm VERY happy with it. I read/heard a lot on the interwebs about how 5% is enough and so on, so I didn't try a 10%. But it's been a game changer 😂 Go figure. The proof of the pudding is in the eating. Helps a lot with my inflammation and general skin health, which - better barrier = better immunity against malassezia. I'll finish the bottle and do a proper review, but for now I'll say it's very lightweight, slightly milky abd your usual runny serum consistency. Leaves skin feeling soft matte (it has alkanes in it, which are often used as a "clean" alternative to silicones, apparently). I love Disrupt's packaging. But we'll get into that when I review it for real 😂 I use about half a coin-sized amount.

🌸 UvDoux Sunscreen gel with SPF 50 PA+++ (approx ₹600 for 50g)

I used up my Blessing Tree sunscreen and moved on to this one. It's got a silicone base, so it's basically like a makeup primer, and that took a while to get used to. But I enjoy it greatly now, and have seen a slight improvement in skin healing time and PIH since starting use. Has a very slight white cast for a short period of time, and once it begins to sink in, I pat rather than continuing to rub, otherwise it does start pilling on me. I think it gets sliiiightly white at the hairline if I sweat, but eh 🤷🏽‍♀️

I will say - UvDoux sunscreen does require a double cleanse with an oil-based first cleanser, IMO, and that in itself can complicate one's routine, if simplicity is important to you. If that's a dealbreaker, you can check out my original post for alternatives that may only need a good foaming cleanser to remove. Maybe the Episoft SPF30 or something.

Another factor to consider is that the silicone base IS occlusive AF. I would not recommend using this sunscreen if you're currently trying to treat an ACTIVE malassezia overgrowth and/or live in a humid climate. Might be fine if you're in a cold and/or dry climate - but malassezia overgrowth is relatively uncommon in those circumstances anyway 🤔 Just a point to note. You may be better off using a water-based sunscreen or (gasp 😂) not using a sunscreen at all, and relying on hats and umbrellas - at least till your malassezia calms TF down.

The Blessing Tree sunscreen I have come to regard as a moisturiser with some added SPF 😂 We shall probably never know the true efficacy of that product. An eternal mysteryyy ✨

#Night

🌸 DIY Oil cleanser - not fungal-safe (instructions here)

I always follow up with a facewash. When my fungal acne was much worse, using this DIY cleanser would make it worse, so I stuck to using plain MCT oil or baby oil, taking off most of the dissolved makeup, etc. with a damp microfiber cloth, and then using a foaming face wash.

🌸 Clean & Clear Natural Bright Face Wash ₹60 for 50 ml . Has glycerin as second ingredient but also a sulphate as third. pH is around 6.5. I actually like that, because it reassures me that any residue of my non fungal-safe oil cleanser is taken off. Unnecessary and just psychological? Probably 😂 A nice, basic (hehehe) gel with very little lathering. I'm almost done with this bottle, and will leave a review after.

I'd say this is practically interchangeable with the Rejusure 2% Salicylic Acid Face Wash full review here that I similarly used and finished up this past year. I'd probably repurchase the Rejusure over the Clean & Clear, because anti-inflammatory bonus SA - but I'm considering trying the Deconstruct salicylic acid facewash next 🤔

🌸 Aziderm Gel 20% (₹270 for 15 gms) - PRESCRIPTION PRODUCT. Only under derm supervision. OG treatment product for me. Apparently they reformulated this past year, and it's harsher now (all the more reason to consult a dermatologist before using). I guess my skin just used to it, after years of use, because I can't tell at all 😂 I use a large pea-sized amount for face, upper neck, and spot treating if I have any acne or PIH on my chest.

#or

🌸 Disrupt 2% Salicylic Acid serum (₹275 for 30ml) I actually got this before their niacinamide one, and it worked really well is why I chose to buy another product from them. I'm 3/4th of the way through the bottle, so full review coming in some time. For now, I'll say it's identical in appearance, texture and consistency to the niacinamide one (I can tell them apart because one is newer and heavier 😂). It doesn't leave the silky finish of the niacinamide, and sinks in without leaving a trace. Which I like 😌 Oh, and the pH is a nice effective 3.5. It works, I purged, that's all I'll say for now 😂

🌸 Body Cupid 99% Pure Aloe Vera Gel (₹299 for 200 ml)

Still a staple in my routine. Some nights I mix this with MCT oil or Moisturex cream, still, and/or zinc oxide powder of my skin is feeling inflamed.

#or

🌸 One Thing Centella Soothing Cream (₹1450 for 100ml)

This is a gel-cream moisturiser that has a thicker consistency (probably because of silicones) than you'd expect. Like, it dispenses out of the tube in a very controlled manner. I'm looking forward to reviewing it once I finish the tube, because it's my first Korean skincare purchase in at least five years, and the packaging, at the very least, is a joy to use.

The product itself is nice. Easily spreadable, hydrating and sinks in fast. Leaves the skin feeling much the same as before application, but smoother and slightly plumper. The price, which I was initially like, big spender, hehe - is actually mid-range, considering 100ml will last me forever. The amount I use for face and neck is maybe the size of two peas. I'm gonna have this tube for a year plus 😂 One reason why I wanna mini review it midway. I don't think it's a must-have, or that it's any better than my aloe + MCT, so in terms of "soothing"... I don't think so. Using zinc oxide mixed into stuff, or even just the Body Cupid aloe works better for me, personally. I think people with oily skin, who live in humid conditions, will appreciate how lightweight and almost, like... it feels like it does nothing, but it does the thing 😂 It's more siliconey than, for reference, the Dr. Sheth's Aloe and panthenol gel - that gets slightly sticky in summer, this leaves a much smoother finish. So that's a plus point, if you're into that.

I find it unnecessary to use it in the mornings with the rest of my routine, but if you get it, have high humidity, and malassezia, a pea sized amount will be enough. More than that might be too occlusive.

🌸 Luxura Sciences MCT Oil ₹399 for 250ml

HG standby, whether I'm mixing it into stuff or using two-three drops patted over as a last step. Mixes into all my other products without pilling. I would recommend this to anyone with oily, acne-prone skin, even, since it sinks in easier than actual oils. I'm not loyal to the brand or anything, and would switch to C8 oil if it were available.

The Aiwo C8 oil is, like 2000 bucks for 500ml. I've been using this 250ml for four months now, and I've used maybe 1/4th of the bottle (only for face). So in a year ir so, we'll see 😂 I'll probably start using it for body as well, though, since it's so nice and lightweight.

🌸 Moisturex cream *(₹251 for 50g)

In the past, I thought this was too strong an exfoliant for the face (10% urea, 10% lactic acid in a paraffin cream). Now I'm pretty sure the urea isn't exfoliating (urea is keratolytic over 10%) - but that 10% lactic is definitely supercharged because of occlusion from the paraffin! I've used exfoliating acids for long enough now that my skin tolerates them well. On days I really wanna do the least, I use a small dab of Moisturex on a wet face and massage till it sinks in. One and done. Try at your own risk, I'm still not recommending you mimic me 🙃 I more often use it mixed into aloe gel or the Centella cream sometimes, instead of MCT oil. Especially on days I'm more dehydrated.

I'm using Cotaryl cream instead of Moisturex for the body, and that's definitely stronger. And has a very strong, kinda peculiar fragrance. It's 12% urea, 6% lactic acid, and I use that alternate days on my body. I do prefer it to Moisturex on the body, because it exfoliates and softens the skin more (>12% urea). It's also not as occlusive (kind of like a whipped rich cream). Although it's nice mixed into stuff for the face (again, imitate at your own risk!), the fragrance is just too much for me on the face. That shit lingers 😐 So although it works similarly to Moisturex, I now own one of both 😌❤ Shoutout to u/thesoapmaker_ for putting me onto Cotaryl. If you have very dry skin on your body, or want something relatively lightweight but very effective for thick, dry skin on your feet, knees, elbows, (and don't mind a fragrance that's halfway medicated shampoo, halfway agarbatti) you can look into it. Would not recommend for face AT ALL.

🌸 Boroline Night Repair Cream **(₹ for) *

Not a cream at all, just an extra smooth version of Boroline balm. I use it very rarely in summer (sometimes on my hands and feet, because it's nice and non-greasy), and pretty much all the time in winter. Exact same routine, only more MCT oil, and Boroline night cream on top 😌 I prefer it to changing products by season.

#In conclusion

I also have dandruff on my scalp, and was washing my hair twice a week using a double cleanse (second with medicated shampoo). I've recently learned that people with an oily scalp (which is what the malassezia yeast feeds on, which leads to seb derm and dandruff) are better served by washing their hair more often, maybe even every day. Dr. Dray's haircare videos used to be a skip for me, but not any more! 😂

So I'm currently washing my hair (single cleanse) on alternate days and am probably gonna do a double cleanse with a medicated shampoo once a week 🤔 The challenge continues to be about conditioners and styling products. I've got some Ideas, so I'll share when I settle into a routine that works!

I'd always say to seek a dermatologist's guidance if you're struggling with your skin for any reason and don't know what to do. My derm was like - malassezia is a commensal, some people just have a tendency to experience overgrowth. She recommended diet and lifestyle changes, stress reduction, etc. rather than medication, which wasn't easy for me to hear 😅 But she also pointed out that I was successful in maintaining healthy skin with the routine I'd created. Without the need for using antifungal shampoos or anything on the face. And that I'd achieved my goal, really.... Kind of blew my mind to realise. Because I really was thinking in terms of "when will my skin stop being like this, and be NORMAL", and it was making me really resentful and restless about my... already... healthy... skin 🙃 Having realised that, I'm pretty content with my routine, and proud of the relationship I've formed with my skin 🥰

Your derm may decide medication is the best route for you, and I fully encourage you to follow their instructions, whatever they may be. I'm simply sharing my own experience, in the hope that it may be helpful in some way, shape or form.

I continue to update the list of fungal-safe products on the original post, and haven't gone into too much detail about some of the products here because that post covers them in detail. Feel free to refer to that if you're interested.

Hope this was helpful! K, byee! ☺❤