Supports not adhering to bottom layer
Posted Aug 22, 2022, 9:39 AM UTC
1113
This happened to me and I spent two weeks(doing multiple test prints and cranking up base exposure to 100+ on my mono printer, sanding the plate for over 3+ hours, etc) and a lot of money (ripped off the flex plate magnet and replaced FEP since I thought they were the issues) turns out it was resin that was bad already when I bought it (it was 70% off online during a monthly sale on the online platform I used so I thought it was just an ordinary good deal that always pops up during those times). Make sure to try a different resin when the advice here doesn't work out.
3
Haha thanks for the warning. I've been there before with other resins. It's new resin from a massive brand so I'm hoping it's not that. I have had successes with it before so fingers crossed it hasn't gone bad from sitting in the vat too long or something.
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Having this issue where my bottom layers are printing fine but intermittently the layers immediately after look like they are not adhering.
Any idea what might be causing this? Gut feeling is I need to look at bottom layer exposure & transition layers, but I'd left the window open so could also just be temperature dropped overnight.
Saturn 2 using anycubic tough grey @6 sec exposure. Bottom exposure is 40s 4 layers.
My exposure is pretty well dialed in using xp2 and cones of calibration. When this failure doesn't occur things print great.
The failure isn't limited to one area of the plate, it happens sporadically across the print area, and it isn't an issue with just this one batch of files. The near identical batch before printed flawlessly. The one before that had smaller failures.
2
I saw a video a while back where a guy was trying to figure out why his prints were pulling off the plate like this. Moisture collecting between the FEP and the glass caused suction. The suction was enough to pull parts of the print off the build plate. He buffed powder on the glass (I think it was corn starch) and the FEP stopped sticking. I tried it and my FEP and glass are still dry but I haven't had the chance to test print much with it because of the heat this summer.
Edit - The guy in the video used baking powder.
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That's an unusual issue. I'll take a look at the vat and see what's going on underneath I guess!
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Before powdering, taking the vat off my printer always took some effort because the FEP was suctioned to the glass. After the powdering it slides right out. I live in Oregon so there's usually a lot of moisture in the air and I assume it condenses on the glass in the heat.
Edit: I found the video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IcbWUjJgMhA
He used baking powder.
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I had this issue last week. I releveled the bed with a thiner "spacer sheet" and a bit pressure.
Others have suggested to slightly sand the build plate with 400 grid paper.
Temperatures may be an issue, but I doubt it. The screen itself gets fairly warm. However I have a 25W heating cable routed around the inside of the case in combination with a thermostat both regularly used in reptile enclosures.
Btw. 6 seconds / layer is rather long, if this is Anycubic basic grey resin.
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It's anycubic tough resin which does have a longer exposure. I'm pretty sure it's not the base exposure causing this as the base layers are printing fine, it's the layer immediately after that is failing I.e failure of resin bonding to resin, not resin to the build plate.
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Interesting. Try increasing the light off delay.
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While this might be a temp related issue. I did have adhesion issues with my Saturn 2 due to the leveling card issue. Everything on the middle and right side of my build plate stuck everything on the left side would fall off or get stuck to fep. After releveling my bed with two a4 papers my issues have been resolved
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That was my first reaction when arriving at the printer but looking closer the bottom layers have printed and stuck, it's the layers that should have come next that haven't stuck to the base layers which is what's confusing me
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Only time I've had that problem is when temp dropped low during overnight printing.
I use a heater under the hood and when temp reaches the recommended temp for the resin I remove it (the fan on the heater vibrates the printer and makes layer waves). The heat from the UV keeps it warm enough after that. (Depends on your specific conditions of course).
I'm thinking it's temperature related too. Everything was working fine during a recent heatwave and this is a recent issue, so can't think of anything else that it could be. I'll see if heating beforehand resolves it, I've been meaning to set up a thermostatic enclosure anyway so may as well bite the bullet.