My first 2A print after several years of printing.
reddit.com/gallery/ylldkiPosted Nov 4, 2022, 1:40 AM UTC
Posted Nov 4, 2022, 1:40 AM UTC
Printed on my Voron2.4 with esun PLA+, rails up. Fairly happy with how it turned out but I’ve got a ways to go before getting one I would even remotely feel comfortable firing. I’m mainly interested in how to get the support touching surfaces better as most of the things I usually print don’t use supports. Also this is 40% infill, but I assume when you make one that you actually want to fire you need to use 100%, right? Thanks for any feedback.
Aye Voron gang 😎
I’m mainly interested in how to get the support touching surfaces better as most of the things I usually print don’t use supports.
Me too. I see a lot of people cleaning them up with a soldering iron.
A sharp wood chisel works well for cleaning up support lines.
If you look under the trigger guard in the photo, you can see the first layer of the print is barely adhered to the rest of the print. That’s the problem I want to solve. Usually I use a soldering iron.
What slicer are you using?
Prusa slicer while lacking tree supports does a much better job at creating overhangs and in general creates far better print quality imho.
You have a Voron, but you're printing with PLA? HERESY! /s
The print looks good, definitely need 100% infill. If you printed with enough walls it might even be functional. PLA supports are super easy to tune and file/break off I wouldnt worry about it too much. You could increase support density to make the bridges look better though.
If your Voron is enclosed buy a hardened nozzle and look at CF and GF nylons instead of PLA. More work but well worth it
But can you print it in 5 minutes? 🤔
Honestly, those supported surfaces look great to me. To get much better, you’d need soluble supports or very difficult to remove supports that require a lot of cleanup time.
Rails down hides the areas that have to be supported. It just also happens to put them where the are harder to clean up and easier to have a negative impact on part figment/operation.
Nice try fuzzy skin one day it will change your 2a prints for the better All in all you got a pretty clean print
Py2a is trash with the single pin locking block had one shatter the side on a frame while shooing https://photos.app.goo.gl/6wWQDD4xUeZ9NhMa7
Looks pretty perfect, good job!
Unfortunately you have to use PY2A rails with their frames. Other rails won’t fit their frames. You will be doing a ton of polishing to their rails for proper function, good luck! Turned out great.
Nice can’t stop the signal!
What's the consensus on printed receivers for durability and reliability? Would you trust it with your life? What about after 5k rounds?
I’ve got 300+ rounds on a 3D frame. Ivan has thousands on some of his. I carry a printed G19 every now and then.
Plastic is easy. If you do it right, it will work.
Cool. Is an Ender 3 good enough for frames?
That’s the standard starter printer yep. But do a lot of other printing first to learn about everything before you ever try a firesrm
what have you been printing for several years? that print looks rough bro....I would do a full machine and filament specific calibration
Ya the retractions have not been tuned for this filament yet. I also forgot to align the seam at the back and rotate it 45 degrees.
[deleted]
print rails down. low and slow so it doesn't warp. low bed heat. dial in your support distance so cleanup inside is minimal. I wouldn't carry one in the chamber with a gun printed rails up or at 45
The 45 I’m referring to is rotated in the Z to align the least visible corner of it to the back of the machine, not rotating it 45 pointing up for supports.
yeah z seam should be randomized for strength. definitely reprint rails down
It looks decent for rails up. Rails down works much better
who in the hell downvoted this ?!