Swift06

I plan on selling a project car with no title for more than 10k. I don't mind accepting personal checks, cashier's checks, etc, but obviously this opens me up to scammers.

What's the best way to go about this? Should I just say that I accept these forms of payment, but I'm going to hold onto the car until the check clears? Is it possible to go to their bank and verify that the funds are in the account? Would a wire transfer be easiest?

A sale like this seems tricky and I don't know the easiest way to go about this.

I pulled if out, unplugged the wires to the heating element and I got 17ohms. This seems fine because most resources are saying 10-50 is good.

What's the next step in trying to figure this out? I would suspect the control board, but I'm not sure which wires to test for ohms, etc.

Any help is appreciated!

I've been with WOW internet for a year, I've had them in the past and they're usually pretty good. I've been having an annoying issue that my internet speed will drop to a crawl, less than 1Mb down, or it'll just drop altogether. This always happens between 7-10PM and can continue until around 6-9AM, probably two nights a week. Three technicians have come out and of course they're never here early or late enough when I have an issue. They've replaced lines, moved the modem/router combo, and the last tech installed home WiFi and turned my modem/router into just a modem. It's still happening, so is there a way to make sure it isn't my modem before I switch ISPs? It's an Arris SURFboard SBG6782

I currently own a giant trance 2, full suspension. I jumped straight into this sport with that bicycle and I'm really considering a hardtail for an even bigger challenge.

The Giant has a fox 34 rhythm with 140mm of travel and sometimes it bottoms out on a more aggressive trail in my area. I like my 34 which is why I'm tunneling on this brand. The rockshox nomenclature is just confusing and I'd rather buy what I have experience with. When it comes to picking a hardtail, it's difficult to find something with a fox 34 of any quality (factory, rhythm, etc) but 32 factory is common.

Am I missing something? If the 32 line with 100-110mm of travel is common, but I sometimes bottom out a 34 on an

My brother and I might take a last second trip this weekend to snowshoe. It's raining all day today and probably some tomorrow as well.

Will the park be in decent shape by Friday? Hopefully someone on this sub has been there and knows more about the trail conditions. Thanks!

Looking to upgrade from my 97 Trek 5500. It's pretty damn stiff and I'd like a general quality of life upgrade. These are the two bikes that have my attention, but I'm open to more suggestions as well. The 5500 is a little small for me, so getting the correct size will be an improvement in itself.

The main draw for the Specialized is the future shock. This innovation seems like a big advantage in comfort (which is important to me) regardless of frame engineering. That being said, I've seen reviews praising the Giant's comfort as well.

Weight is second to comfort, because I can always upgrade the wheelset or shed weight elsewhere in the future. I'm also not too familiar with how well the c

So I purchased a tacx smart trainer with the plan of using the same road bike for indoor and outdoor exercise. I didn't forsee the issue of tuning the rear derailleur every time I switched from trainer to rear wheel...

My current setup is a 1x tiagra. Will an older frame fit a tiagra cassette? I don't want to spend a lot of money to get the trainer up and running, but from what I can tell with my current situation I'm kind of stuck building 3/4 of a bike for it.

Any suggestions on how to do this are really appreciated.

I'm really considering switching to a 1x setup because it's very flat where I live. There's really only one small climb near me and I'm never usually using my small ring.

What would be an optimal gearset combination? I don't know how to figure out what would suit me best for something this specific. I typically ride around 17.5-18.5mph, sometimes 24mph with the wind. Any advice is appreciated, thanks!

Edit: I should add that my rides are typically 1-2 hours with an average elevation of about 200ft in 18 miles and a high of 650 ft over 39 miles.

A year and a half ago I bought a neglected 2004 Honda Accord EX, 6 speed coupe. Aside from looking like a turd with peeling clear coat and the typical Honda rust, this car is a ton of fun to drive, averages ~26-27mpg and $30/mo for minimum insurance.

It needed a lot of routine maintenance when I bought it, but for $2,200 out the door and only 97,000 miles, I thought it was a good deal.

I've done a lot of the mechanical work myself, and it has needed to go to the shop twice (once was from a boneheaded mistake on my part), so now I'm curious as to how cost/mile compares with everyone else. I'm at 42.8 cents/mile with 18 months of ownership. This includes everything from gas, parts, even win

I'd have to buy 100 shares to write a call per Robinhood collateral requirement. If the option expires ootm, I'm stuck with 100 shares of less valuable stock, which offsets the credit. This is stupid. Am I missing something?

I have a shopsmith mark V that I inherited with a few attachments (no jointer unfortunately), a dual bevel miter saw and another table saw that was also inherited.

I've been reading and studying basic farmhouse or harvest tables and they all use 2x lumber. I don't want grooves in the table, I want to get it as flat as possible. How can I go about doing this with 8' boards without access to a jointer? Any help is appreciated.

I've had the idea of ripping 2x10 to remove the rounded corner. After that I'd use a level and a hand planer to try and mimic what a jointer would do. I think I can get it decently straight, glue the boards together and then use a circular saw to cut the very ends of t