SystemVirus

After a lengthy research period, I've brought my selection down to these two TVs. I had originally considered the X900F, but given the X950G (2019 model) has a few improvements, I didn't see an issue in upgrading. I know the Q8FN is a 2018 model, but I'm assuming the price of the successor (looking at the 2019 HTBuyingGuide looks like the QN55Q80R) will be significantly more expensive.

As far usage goes, I watch a lot of netflix, hulu, amazon, etc. I don't watch sports, so that's not a factor for me. I also have a gaming PC that I will connect to this tv and expect to be playing third person games like DMC 5, Assassin's Creed, etc. I won't be playing FPS's on this TV.

To further complicate

I was very unfortunate to sign up for crashplan less than two weeks ago and am now finding out that they are discontinuing their home service. I called customer support to request a refund since it's been less than a month and my first backup hasn't even close to finished and was told refunds are not available with the home plan, but hey, I've got an extra few months ... (something along those lines).

Are there any options on getting my money back? Or am I just totally screwed?

I'm trying to replace an extremely old line voltage (120v) 4-pipe coil fan thermostat in my condo with a new digital one. When I removed the old thermostat from the junction box, I noticed there were 4 wires. Since this is a 4-pipe system, two of the wires (red and blue) are for heating and cooling respectively. The white wire is line and the black wire is apparently for the fan. There is no neutral wire. I looked at the junction box attached to the Fan and confirmed there were only 4 wires in the armored cable and none of them were connected to neutral. The new thermostat I got requires a neutral connection to operate.

Is there any way I can work around this, or do I have no choice but to

Hey, I'm planning on contacting some electricians tomorrow to get this job done but wanted the candid advice that you usually get with reddit. I recently bought a condo that was built in the 70's. In replacing the outlets, I noticed a bunch of the gang boxes were off kilter, really small (depth and width) and seemed to move/give a lot more than I'd like. The few that seemed sturdy, I'm okay with, but I'd like to replace the rest. The problem/issue is that there is no ground wire as the entire building is ground, so as long as the non-contact metal parts of the outlet touch the box, it's 'grounded', or so I was told, anyway. All of the 'old work' boxes I've seen seem to be PVC so I'm wonderin

From the very few reviews I've seen of KUL keyboards, everyone has mentioned that there is no ping. I received my KUL ES-87 (MX Clear) recently and it is pinging up the wazoo. It's seems pretty sensitive to pings -- I can basically flick a key and it'll cause it to ping and even if I place the kb on a soft surface it will stil ping -- even if I don't bottom out a key it will still, often, ping. Has anyone else had this issue? Is this a break-in issue or something else?

I've seen some builds, as recently as an hour ago, that have Samsung 840 Evo's in them. Just wanted to make sure folks realize that the performance restoration tool was not a complete fix. As an example, I have a 1TB 840 Evo -- just ran HDTach this morning and the average speed for the populated sectors was under 200MB/s. This is nowhere near as bad as the sub 50MB/s speeds pre-restoration tool, but this is still bad given the advertised speeds.

Anandtech wrote something about this which you can read here

If you're in the market for a new SSD, please take this issue into cons

Building a computer for my dad. The majority of his usage is probably web browsing with Chrome. Looking for any alternatives folks may have in regard to any of these parts especially cpu/mobo (which is a combo deal at microcenter). Also, if anyone has an 8GB memory option that isn't too much more than 4GB, I'd like to know.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

I have a Gigabyte GV-N770OC-4GD card in my machine which has the following specs:

Asus Sabertooth Z77 Intel i7 3770K 32GB Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR 3 1600 Corsair HX750 (750Watt) Windows 7 Professional 64-bit Dual Monitor (both over DVI) 1st: 2560x1440 2nd: 1920x1200 Driver: 344.11 (although there's been 3 or so driver updates since it started crashing)

A few months ago, my nvidia display driver kept crashing and mostly not while in-game. It'll often crash when I'm just doing mundane stuff on the desktop like browsing the web via chrome or firefox.

To make sure it wasn't a driver issue, I uninstalled all Nvidia related software and ran the Display Driver Uninstaller (DDU) software to p

Although Closed Loop Cooler (CLC) leaks are considered to be rare, they do occasionally happen. Has anyone in this sub experienced a leak and what was the extent of the damage. Did the cooler manufacturer cover the damage, if any?