WellTimedPoop

I have ridiculously wide feet. My normal shoe size is 13 6E wide. I can make 4E wide (and typically do, since that’s the widest I can find in non specialty stores), but I tend to blow out the sides of my shoes after 6 months or so.

As such, clueless bike shoes are effectively impossible for me. I know there exist some boutique wide cycling shoes, but they all cost about as much as my bike did.

So I was thinking, in really cold areas, I’ve seen ice cleats that strap on to your shoes. Is there such a thing for bike cleats? I’m talking full foot coverage, not just a simple basket style. I tried googling it, but am not really sure what the proper terminology is since I’m new to cycling as

I was driving home yesterday on an interstate. Speed limit was 70. I enabled autopilot with a speed limit of 70. Worked fine for a few miles, and then suddenly it set its max speed to 55 (but I know for a fact that there's no Speed Limit 55 sign there. There's no temporary speed limit sign for a curve, there hasn't been construction there in years, etc. Speed limit is 70, that's that.)

I manually pushed the accelerator to get us back up to speed, apologized to my wife, and adjusted autopilot speed back up to 70 with the right scroll wheel.

But when I took my foot off the accelerator, the car started slowing down below 70. I increased Autopilot to 75. Car still slowed down.

There

M3LR, no FSD or EAP. I drove 270 miles yesterday on autopilot and only had one unexpected deceleration. That's improved a ton since our last road trip about 3 months ago.

However, every single time a lane split, the car would ride the gap up until the new lane line started, and then it would jerk left and/or right trying to pick a lane.

Why can't it, rather than splitting the gap, pick a line to stay a certain distance from so that it'll stay in the current lane?

It got really annoying having to disengage AP every time that happened and then re-engage, especially since the AP chime is loud enough (even on Joe Mode) to wake my sleeping wife and kid

I'm not in a hurry to get the phone, but I absolutely want to make sure I get the $1000 trade-in credits for my 12 Pro (but more importantly, the $800 for my mom's SE which is nuts).

Do I need to get an order in today or am I good longer-term?

I found the press release where they announced the promo but the terms don't have an expiration date linked

Absolutely love the car. Zero issues found while walking the checklist, car is spotless.

Unfortunately no Matrix lights which is a bummer since somebody else here with a 263 vin did get them. Oh well, I didn’t even realize they were a thing when I ordered the car. No big deal. Good luck everybody!

Can I go early at all? I’m scheduled for 1PM Monday. If I showed up at noon would they make me wait? I’m just so excited!!

I took my ID.4 to the dealership last night to sell it back to them (this is the sequel to my goodbye post from yesterday I guess). There was another black ID.4 FE (identical to mine) sitting out front. I asked the salesman what the yellow sticker on the window was for (I didn't get close enough to read it).

He said that it had a "no-repair recall". Something wrong with it that VW said not to fix, and that VW would be buying the car back from them.

I didn't pry (because I wanted to just get paid for my ID.4 and get out of there), but has anyone seen that before? Just curious what recall there could be that's so serious that they want the car back, and why I haven't heard about it here.

I’m looking to have a 240V outlet added to my attached garage that I can plug my car charger into. I’ve been living on 120V for a year but I’ve been driving more lately and it’s not really cutting it.

Anyone have a recommendation for a good electrician in the area (I’m north of the city) that won’t charge extortionate rates because it’s for an EV? (I’ve seen people lie and say it’s for a welder, but I’d rather not have to do that).

I had been waiting to get my VIN to sell my trade-in, because I was driving an ID.4 and didn't want to have to go back to dailying our CR-V with how expensive gas is. But since I was leasing the ID.4 which complicates selling it, as soon as I got my VIN on Monday, I started the process of selling so I wouldn't have to pull my downpayment from savings.

Super excited! EDD is currently June 7-21, and I'm reeeeeeally hoping it comes before the 17th when we're taking a 700 mile road trip.

Sorry if this post breaks the rules, but I wanted to say goodbye and good luck to everybody here.

I've been a member of this sub since early May 2021 when I was researching whether or not to get an ID.4. I've gotten all sorts of tips and help with all of the issues I've had with my leased first edition, and I really appreciate everybody here.

But as fun as it's been here, my experience with the car has been less than fun. As such, I'm selling it back to my VW dealership tonight (I leased, so I don't have the option of selling to carvana/vroom/etc without first buying out the lease, and I'm not interested in all that work/delay for a couple thousand bucks).

Best of luck to everyone

I was one of the many people who complained about car-net for months and was super excited when they launched a new app. Except myVW is WAY worse for me. It literally never persists my session. Every single time I go to open the app, I get an error saying it can't log in. So then I have to enter username, password, and pin to get back to the overview screen. If the car is charging (and since I charge on L1, that's basically always), I can't control the climate without stopping charging first. If I try to start the climate while it's charging, I get a success confirmation on the app but the car itself throws an Auxiliary Climate Ctrl error.

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If I want to stop charging an