flatfocus

I've been using some Waprolux leather from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply, and I love this stuff, but my god, it's so hard to mark a line on it.

Does anyone have any good tips on this sort of issue? I feel like maybe I should move away from using the compass thing I'm using now and maybe just line up some scotch tape or something to mark out a line, or some other hack like that.

I'm stuck in a location in Canada where the only place nearby to buy thread is Fabricland, a big chain. I have gotten lots of thread mail order from the US (I mostly use Ritza Tiger), but it's a pain having to wait. For instance, tomorrow I have time to work some leather, but I would love to grab some black thread thinner than 0.6mm.

If I just go to this chain store, what's my best bet, what should I get? Are there things to avoid that cloth sewists use?

Hello!

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I'm making an iPad case, and I took 2 pieces of leather, attached a single zipper to them for the opening, and then I put on the zipper stops.

However, one thing is messed up: The pull is stuck down at the far (top) end, where the case should be zipped up, but the case is unzipped. The pull won't go backwards because the zipper is open. It's insanely frustrating!

The zipper is a Riri 4 type if that helps. Anyone have any tips? The ideal thing would be if I could somehow close the whole zipper without moving the pull backwards I guess?

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A few times I've been on Amazon and seen this "Heavy Duty" sewing machine, and a few people in the reviews say they've used it to sew things like purses, or other lighter leather things.

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The machines everyone recommends on here are too much for me to justify, but if I was positive that I was only ever going to use a machine for thin items like wallets, or that kind of thing, what is the thinking on getting something like this? I have no experience with machines at all, 0%, so I don't know if for instance, it'll make.. weird stitches or something?

I can't figure out whether I should get the KS Blade "Pricking Irons" or "Diamond Pricking Irons". To me, they look so similar, but I guess I can basically see the difference.

Other than the final look, is there much functional difference? Is there one style of hole that is easier to create perfect stitching with? I still struggle with getting great looking lines on both sides of the leather, so if one of these makes it easier, I'd care a lot!

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I also know that I punched a bunch of hioles with my Seiwa 3mm this weekend, and when I looked at the piece after, they certainly seemed to be different sizes, and I know that's more my technique than anything, but is there a certain ho

I've been thinking of getting a Dremel with the stand so you can mount it horizontally (I can also use it for another upcoming task), but I was looking at the Tandy burnishing machine and wondering if there'd be a huge advantage to getting that, anyone have thoughts on this?

I'm going to get a hole drilled into the shaft of my arbor press, and I don't have any KS Blade punches yet but I think I'll get some soon, can anyone let me know what the diameter of the handle is so I can get a hole that I can use for that?

Hello y'all,

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I was wondering if anyone had any examples handy of using KS Blade irons with Ritza Tiger thread, and specifically the combos I'd like to look at are:

2.7mm iron + 0.6 thread

3.0 mm iron + 0.6mm thread

3.38mm iron + 0.6mm thread

Or in that general area.

The situation I am in is this:

I currently have some Seiwa 3mm irons from Goodsjapan, but I just have a 2-prong and a 4-prong, and I hate having to constantly line things up over and over. So I want to grab a new set of chisels with more like 10 prongs.

I also love using the smallest thread possible, for aesthetics, and I have a bunch of spools of 0.6mm tiger thread (smallest available) in various colors. It

I have a big piece of poplar that I use when I'm pounding holes into leather. It's about 14 x 20 x 1.75 inches and it's poplar (sort of in between softwood and hardwood I think).

Just wondering if anyone knows whether I'd see any significant reduction in noise (or any other benefits) by switching to a piece of granite like so many people here use.

When I was new to LW, I got a couple of 10sqft pieces of Chromexcel (in 2 diff colors - one was a gift), but I didn't know so much about weight and I got 4/5oz.

Now, I'm into doing wallets for now, but I want to use this stuff. I don't think I have enough of it to do a duffel bag, maybe a dopp kit, but I just kind of want to use it for something. I tried skiving a piece down with a japanese plane and a superskiver, and I felt like I hit a limit where it just wouldn't skive after a certain point (maybe 30% cut off?)

I just want suggestions of something cool to make with this stuff, so it's not sitting around forever, and I get some practice out of it while I'm still a noob. I find this to b

I haven't used edge paint before, but I'm about to start soon, and I wanted to ask: How much better is an edge paint roller or applicator than using.. some other method?

I have no problem paying $25 for one if it genuinely makes it a lot easier/better, but this feels like something where there is probably some cheaper-but-fine solution, am i right?

I've been having trouble with pounding a diamond chisel through soft leather.

I cement 2 pieces of soft leather together, and when I pound all the holes, they're perfect on one side, but the leather seems to bend a bit and they're not as straight on the other side.

This happens with stiffer vegtan, but not as badly. I need tips to just somehow make the holes better.

I considered punching each piece of leather separately, but I don't know how I could get the holes in exactly the same place on both, it seems like it'd too hard. But is there a trick for that I may not know?

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I'd love to hear what people do to cut perfect rectangles or square. Or even 90 degree angles, which I guess is the main thrust of everything.

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This is something I struggle with, and I come very close usually, but I feel like maybe there's something everyone is doing I'm missing. I have an angled ruler but the corner is rounded and also it's very slippery, no cork, so I don't use it all the time for this.

Early on when I got into LW I bought a Tandy Super Skiver. Since then I've acrrued a couple of other ways to skive (head knife, japanese plane) but I always feel that I missed out on really figuring out to use the Super Skiver.

Maybe if I keep using it, muscle memory will start to kick in, and I'll be able to make really even, repeatable cuts with it, but does anyone have any tips? Also let me know if the super skiver is not as good as alternatives and maybe I shouldn't stick with it and waste time.

If I wanted to make something like backpacks, and I wanted to buy a NEW sewing machine, what is the cheapest one I could buy that WOULD do a good, professional job and not be super hard to use? For ease of use I'd say for instance: It doesn't have to be DEAD SIMPLE but something that doesn't leave out handy features (walking foot?)

Thickness of leather to sew: I dunno, 5/6oz, maybe 6/7 ? higher would be a plus but not vital.

I'm limiting this question to certain very narrow parameters here. I know buying used would be cheaper, and that there are probably very fancy ones that make it SUPER easy, but I just am curious about this narrow range (doubt I'll buy one soon anyway)