lifson

So just thought I'd post this here since I my searches for purchase experiences fro speedybee found very little info.

I ordered the speedybee bee25 after doing some research. I wanted something I could fly inside with dji o3, because I own a dji goggles 3 for my mini 4 pro. After watching some videos, I liked the speedybee app for adjusting settings on the drone, and at under 400 USD including the o3 unit it seemed like a solid deal.

Ordered last week, it supposedly shipped fedex from china, then had about 7 tracking updates just sitting in China, and moving cities a couple times, then suddenly showed as being delivered to me in Portland OR. This update was posted on Friday night my tim

So I just bought my first fpv radio transmitter, the radiomaster boxer, and in multiple places, in the manual and on a note in the battery compartment it says specifically to use 3.7v 18650, not 3.6v. It actually says not 3.6v, but every reputable 18650 I can find says it's nominal voltage is 3.6v. I can also use a 7.4v 2s lipo pack according to the manual. Just wondering if maybe this warning about not using 3.6v 18650 is maybe bs and it should be fine, I just don't understand how not a single 18650 from any of the recommended retailers would fits this requirement.

Like a lot of people, I am disappointed with some things that aren't in the game, however I'll honestly be really happy if what is here works. I'm enjoying a lot of this. Gunplay is amazing for a bethesda game, and so far the story is fun. I just finished into the unknown which seems like an important checkpoint of sorts for the main story.

I enjoyed fo4 settlement building but it was a very slapped on feature. They literally admitted it was basically added on as an afterthought near the end of development. It had constant issues that they never fixed with patches.

Yesterday I started building my first outpost. I'm 20 hours in and at level 11. It took about 3 hours of exploring landing ar

I'm running: Windows 10 pro latest build 5800x3d at DCOP to get memory to rated speed. ASUS STRIX X570-i gaming motherboard on latest firmware(pretty sure its the problem) 32GB ddr4 running at their rated 3600mhz Latest chipset drivers. Usb suspend disabled on all ports

My problem is generally only really apparent during large data transfers over usb. I've had this board since 2021, but didn't ever try to do any super large transfers vis usb until about a year ago, when I had a older 4tb wd black die and needed to do a recovery dumb via Linux build of hddsuperclone (amazing free software Btw. Used an extra itx build I have as a HTPC to do this crazy long, 32 day clone of the 4tb drive that

Windows 10 Pro

WD4001FAEX - WD 4TB desktop drive

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So lets get passed the part where I don't have proper backups. This 4TB drive was my main storage, for work and personal files. I had the most important folders for work backing up to google drive but apparently something broke that and the last time it synced a file to the cloud was 11 months ago....

I'm in Portland, OR, looking for either DIY help or shop recommendations.

Yesterday everything seemed fine until I ran an nvidia display driver update, that required a restart. I came back to see a SMART post message saying my large storage drive had failed, and hit "f1 to enter setup". No continue option. In bios I disabled

So I'm not a complete novice, but wanted to make a post so I don't make too many dumb mistakes or waste time and money. My goal is to get these cat5e runs active without bottlenecking my Gigabit, or spending a ton. The Cat5e runs were installed before I moved in and I only recently realized they existed everywhere I want a wired connection.

Current setup has Gigabit fiber line connecting through the kitchen wall, into the ONT. The CenturyLink tech guy found the cat5e coming from under the house, bundled outside in a wall box. He ran a short cat5e cable from the ONT, through the wall and spliced it with the existing cat5e run to the living room where we had our AC3100. The lines were run to

The expected delivery date when I ordered was 5/31. Reached out to support last week and was told my order was expected to arrive within may. It was marked as shipped on the 25th. UPS still hasn't received the package so in fact it hasn't shipped. The UPS estimated delivery was the 28th. Today support told me:

"As the recently released DJI Mini 3 Pro has been loved by many users, the number of orders in the store has surged. As per checking that your order is waiting to be packaged"

I guess 7am on the morning of the release isn't early enough to beat the surge!

So this seems to be an ongoing problem in Windows. I have four Windows 10 systems in my house, All running Windows 10 Pro, all set up with my Microsoft account, never a local account, all on the same network and all updated to newest windows build. I use the same pin to login to each one locally. At one point I had no problems. I would share certain drives or folders on different systems, and each computer was able to see and access anything I had shared over the network using my Microsoft account email and password as the login credentials. But every once in a while an update or system reset would break this functionality. I have gone through many troubleshooting steps, including manually s

Only happens on PC, different GPU's, different computers, doesn't matter.

Started experiencing this issue about a year ago. I have tried multiple graphics cards, and completely different computers, and I've tried different HDMI ports on the TV, but every couple hours, sometimes more frequently, this severe stutter or judder starts up. If I wait a few minutes it usually stops, but swapping the TV to a different input and back using the remote immediately fixes the issue.

THIS ONLY HAPPENS WHEN DISPLAYING FROM PC SOURCE!

XBox One X, PS4 Pro, Nintendo Switch, and native TV os have never once displayed this issue. All the HDMI port