psppb
u/psppb
My first combination woodworking and welding project. Made from the coil springs of a vintage Lincoln and Oak pallet wood.
imgur.com/gallery/oS56VwhI have several boxes of wood screws from the home depot and other various big box stores. The problem is when I use them on nice hard wood, they often snap off leaving me in a short panic. I can usually drill them out or design around it but can someone recommend a brand or type of wood screw that is made for being driven into hard wood? This happens with pilot holes if it matters. Thanks!
I have a cutter head for a 37-190 jointer and a 37-220 jointer can I use the 37-190 cutter head on it if I replace the bearing blocks?
I have a need for an embedded device to stay in a function for one half a second to allow another device to catch up. I used the 1 millisecond timer(r_cg_cmt.c for Renesas IAR IDE) and had a static volatile int delay_time to increment once every 1 millisecond timed interrupt. using the code:
//counter.c
//on 1 mS timed interrupt
gen_purpose_1ms_couter();
void gen_purpose_1ms_couter_reset( void ){
gen_c->count = 0;
}
void gen_purpose_1ms_couter( void ){
gen_c->count++;
}
//source_file.h
struct gen_counter {
unsigned int count;
};
extern struct gen_counter *gen_c;
//source_file.c
#include "counter.h"
I’m new to CAN bus and I have inherited some code that has about 8 devices on a single CAN bus line using a Renesas RX231 chip. Currently the CAN bus is kind of what I would consider a “Free for all” whereas any device can send a command to another device. Each device also sends out pings to every other device. The master and slave relationship is still there with the master acting as sort of the “collector” of data and then the issuer of certain commands. From this I am seeing a lot of weird things like random messages being ignored or interrupts being skipped. It’s very random and not too often but when it does happen it’s a huge problem. Is this a good architecture for the CAN bus? I w
Greetings, I currently own a delta 37-190 Jointer. I paid around 200 for it and really like the size. However it has the traditional three-blade HSS cutters which if the grain is curly will produce tear out. I was contemplating upgrading the motor from a 3/4 HP to a 1.5 Hp. I can get a good motor around here for 50-100 bucks and spending an additional 300 dollars on a spiral cutter head. I have heard people say that I should just upgrade to a bigger, more powerful machine... but I simply don't have the space for a large powermatic or jet jointer let alone the 1500 they cost. I do have 400 which could get me pretty close. I cannot seem to find an 8" jointer less than 69" long which is again
I work in a detached garage and have wood storage above my garage. The wood i have there always hovers around 11-14% moisture which is too high. Most of it is years old air dried stuff. I have brought wood into the basement to dry further with less than ideal results. How can I get my stock down to 9-10% ? I am really struggling with this last step. I live in wisconsin so humidity can be higher.
So during wisconsins lovely winters i am forced to do the finishing of my projects downstairs in the basement. I am looking for something that will extract the fumes from paint from my basement and not allow a lot of cold air inside as well. Can some of the seasoned pros here give me a few suggestions? Thank you.
What is the general concensus on the company? I learned to weld 15 years ago and want to get back into it. I learned on Miller equipment and although nice, it is expensive. This brand was recommended to me. Looking for opinions from pros and experienced hobbists. Thank you.
