Long-term care help.
Background: 2016 GTI SE PP purchased new in April 2016 now with 96,000 miles. APR stage 2, APR intake, APR DP, Audi TTRS clutch, Bilstein B16 PSS10 coilovers - all mods done between 15-20,000 miles, so about 80,000 on the modded car.
I just had my car in the shop to replace a leaking thermostat housing and water pump, evap canister and module, evap pressure switch, and J909 module. I also had a carbon cleaning done.
Now that I’ve got these issues addressed, I’m wondering what else would be good to do now at 100,000 miles to make sure the car can hopefully go another 100k.
I plan to replace the coil packs (previously replaced at 60k with APR packs), replace the spark plugs (previously replaced at 85k with audi rs7 plugs since being tuned). What else is good preventative maintenance to perform? Manual transmission fluid flush? Brake fluid flush? Is there any part of the suspension I should be looking at? Any other known issues with the mk7 that come up around 100k or after?
Any help appreciated, I’ve loved this car since I bought it and want to keep it alive as long as I possibly can.
Posted Feb 28, 2023, 3:10 PM UTC
I’d go back to stock coil packs and then change your spark plugs to non-projected tip ones. Sounds like you have many of the other concerns covered already.
Why do you recommend going back to the stock coil packs? I felt the car ran better when I switched to the APR ones.
You answered your own question on the coil packs. There’s really not much to upgrade on those they’re not a wear item so if they are working they are working. There’s been some research in the forums talking fractional thousandths of a volt difference. I’d leave ‘em alone APR or stock until they break, I like to keep one or two spares handy incase I break one doing plug changes at the 10k frequency I need for my tune.
I love the TTRS style clutches. I’m on my second and this time went with a hybrid that has been treating me very well 30k miles so far!
For brake fluid flushing, that’s gonna depend on what kind of fluid you have. I have been using SRT-600 last few years so once a year for me. OEM fluid lasts longer.
You got carbon cleaning and that’s really the meaningful one and a really really really meaningful one at that. I’m coming up on needing another one soon myself.
Someone mentioned PCV, yes please. It’s easy and when they go they lead to other more expensive problems. My seeping rear main seal I’m looking at you!
Someone got you covered on DV. Stock most recent revision and you’ll be good. Also a part that you’ll know when it breaks / east to diagnose but not prohibitively expensive to replace for peace of mind if you want.
I don’t know on suspension except to grease your rear sway bar bushings if they require grease. If you don’t have a RSB, head right to the RSB store do not pass go. It’s the best
Good luck!
Cool, I’ll skip the coil packs.
Yeah, the TTRS clutch has been great. I’ve driven mk7’s with stage 2 and 3 clutches and a SMF and they feel so much worse than my set up. I’m starting to get a very small amount of clutch slip in sixth, so I know I’m going to need to replace it soonish. I’ll look into the hybrid one you mentioned. Is it able to hold more power? I’m thinking about upgrading to an IS38 as well to give the car a second life and was worried about a new TTRS clutch keeping up with the added power for the 80,000 miles the one I have now has.
Going to replace the PCV and DV with the newest revision OEM parts. I looked up the installs and I can handle those, so a few hundred in parts for peace of mind is good with me.
I don’t know why I put off a RSB for so long but if I’m going this far, I guess it’s time to finally add it.
It’s time to add an RSB 100%
I don’t use 6th all too often. Partially cause I grew up learning on 5 speeds and partially cause I don’t use 6th. It’s 4th where you’ll really see it slip when it’s time.
So I’ve been through 2 of the RSR clutches, I fucked one it was my fault money shift! but like you, a DMF was my goal. Although I recently got a short shifter and am beginning to see the allure of a SMF. Either way don’t forget to replace the flywheel if you go for the TTRS style, DMF should be/need to be matched new for new. I’m only IS20 but an E30 tune which is EQT stage 2 power levels (with a different power curve). So far so good.
Here’s what they currently list for power on the RSR kits (HS Tuning the OG RSR type kit).