GeneralRevil

Quick question on taxes. I filled out an extension for 2020, and I'm just getting around to filing my taxes. I'm owed a refund just under $1200. I want to go all-in on I bonds this year since the rate is attractive. I already bought the $10K of I bonds I can through treasury direct, and I'd like to buy the $5K that I can with my tax return. That means I would need to prepay ~$3800 before filing my taxes. Is there a way to do that?

On the direct pay website, it appears that I can only make estimated payments for 2021, or actual payments for 2020.

Thanks in advance.

Either I'm missing something fundamental, or everyone on the internet is wrong. As much as I like to joke about having a huge ego, the first option is more likely, so please let me know what I'm getting wrong.

This is in the context of student loans, specifically Federal Direct Unsubsidized Loans, and since I don't have any anymore, this is purely academic for me, but I'd still like to know.

As I understand, while you're in school, in the grace period, or in deferment, your loans are still growing, but the interest is not capitalized. You're being charged interest on your principal, and all the accrued interest gets thrown in the uncapitalized interest bucket where it sits and does absolut

I need to decide which lender to go with. I'm down to just these two offers. And I need some unbiased opinion on how to proceed.

| Broker | Quicken ---|---|---- Down payment | 20% | 15% PMI | 0 | 0 Rate | 4.625 | 4.25 Points | 0 | 2.5 Term | 30 years | 30 years

| Broker | Quicken ---|---|---- Loan amount | $330,400 | $351,050 Down payment | $82,600 | $61,950 Origination | $1290 | $400 Points | $0 | $8776 PI payment | $1698 | $1727 Principal on first payment| $425 | $483

I plugged this into a points calculator (although I had to assume both loans were 20% down instead of 20 and 15). The breakeven point is at 8 years. I do

I just got an email from Mango. They're changing the back-end bank from Sunrise to Metropolitan Commercial Bank. No news on program changes, so hopefully this is just like when Insight switched over from Axiom to RBoC. Hopefully there will also be some glitches during the switch over that let us get more than one savings account. Text of the email below.

Hello NAME,

The Mango Prepaid Card you know and (hopefully) love isn’t going anywhere. We are, however, transitioning to our new partner bank. If you'd like to keep banking with Mango, we need your help moving your account from our current partner bank, Sunrise Banks (Sunrise), to our new one, Metropolitan Commercial Bank (MCB).

Ok, but

After much curiosity as to whether or not the Insight Cards credit 5% interest on balances above $5000, I gathered some data points from some volunteers. The answer is yes. Data below.

|Card 1 | Card 2 | Card 3 | Card 4 | Card 5 ---|---|----|----|----|---- Starting Balance (7/1/2017) | 5020.81 | 5021.16 | 5002.94 | 5055.11 | 5000.68 Interest | 62.13 | 62.14 | 61.91 | 62.56 | 61.88 Final Balance (10/1/2017) | 5082.94 | 5083.30 | 5064.85 | 5117.67 | 5062.56 Interest Rate | 4.94979893682% | 4.95025053972% | 4.94988946499% | 4.95023847157% | 4.94972683715%

So, it's safe to say that Insight pays out a simple interest rate of 4.95%. Compounded quarterly, that gives an APY of 5.04%. Keep your

I wanted to figure out what the present value of my estimated Social Security benefits are. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find any such calculator online. Either such a thing doesn't exist, or my Google-fu is weak.

Since I'm single and childless, and if I ignore the disability benefits and advantageous tax treatment, SS is essentially a delayed annuity. Unfortunately, I was only able to find formulas, and not calculators.

I know I can calculate an immediate annuity with (life expectancy - date I start drawing SS) as the payout period, and then discount it by the number of years until I start drawing SS, but I'd like to ask if anyone knows if such a calculator exists online, and als

Quick reminder to everyone. Insight has just posted their Q2 interest to your account. If you have the Insight card backed by Axiom bank, it's no longer earning interest. Transfer the money to your card account and pull it out either with an ACH pull from your bank, or with a bill pay to yourself from the Insight menu.

If you have the card backed by Republic Bank of Chicago, then you don't need to do anything. Those still work.

Update: I tried using a card to card transfer. The opportunity cost ($.68/day and it takes a few days to transfer out, and then transfer in) is greater than the cost of the transfer ($1), but I can't send the money to one of my new cards. Axiom cards use email addre

Like many people, my parents bought into buying life insurance for their kids. Poor decision from the get go. They've been paying it for 26 years and just handed it over to me to do with it what I want. We all know it was a bad idea and there won't be any hard feelings if I decide to surrender it for the cash value. If I had a time machine, I'd go back and tell them not to do it, because after 26 years of payments totaling $1731, the policy has a cash value of $1749.

That's pretty paltry, and my first instinct was to surrender the policy. However, because this was bought in the early 90s, the guaranteed rate is 5%. Considering that I've got my Netspends, Mango, Insight, and Northpointe maxe

I wanted to see if I could get some advice on my choice of allocations. This is all in Tax-advantaged space, split between three accounts. 27 Male, I want to be aggressive and somewhat diversified.

Also, this does not include my 401k. I have that set 100% in a target date fund because I don't like using their website. It's Fidelity's 2055 fund, 90/10 Stock/bond split.

Thanks in advance.

US Stock 53%:

• Broad US Stock Market (SCHB and ITOT) 20%
• US High Dividend Stocks (SCHD) 10%
• US Mid-cap (SCHM) 10%
• US Small-cap (SCHA and IJR) 10%
• US Preferred Shares (PGX) 3%

Non-US Stock 30%:

• Foreign Developed large cap (SCHF) 10%
• Foreign Developed small cap (SCHC) 10%
• Emerging Markets (

I ran Tron yesterday, and when I restarted my computer this morning, I found myself with my local user account gone. For reference, I use only my local user account, and use UAC if I need admin permissions for anything.

I noticed someone wrote about the issue here. They mentioned that this was because the user was removed from all groups, and once he re-added it, everything worked. However, u/luciensadi did not include the steps he used to fix the issue.

In an elevated command prompt, I entered

net localgroup users <username> /add

This allowed me to login to my user accoun

I'm doing some long-term planning, and was hoping to bounce a few ideas off of people.

I've been wondering what the historical performance of a small real estate empire has been as opposed to investing the downpayment in the stock market. At the moment, I have a single rental property that is doing well for me. However, I'm not sure whether I want to continue building this until I have a real estate empire, or invest aggressively in stocks.

Obviously, managing real estate takes more time and effort, but I'm able to manage the one property while working and going to school, so I should be OK. I can always get a property manager down the line when I need one. Either way, I'm living frugally

Not having the time or inclination to make a flowchart, I figured I'd write a short guide on whether to go with ETFs or mutual funds when investing. This doesn't apply to your 401(k) or similar plan, because you don't have a minimum contribution to a mutual fund, and hopefully the mutual fund has a good expense ratio. I would apply this advice to your HSA and IRA.

Step 0: Select an allocation. This can be as simple as a three fund portfolio, or something much more complex. Pick asset classes, not individual funds.

Step 1: Find the funds (ETFs and Mutual Funds, including the lower expense ratio ones that you get at $10,000 or so) that match your asset classes. If you're using Schwab, Fideli

Combing advice from multiple sources (SIP, FA, and PC), I've created a portfolio mix for myself. However, I have an HSA at Fidelity, and an IRA at Schwab. This means that I have access to two separate commission-free ETF sources. This is great because it allows me to cover deficiencies in one source with the other and vice versa. However, it does lead me to the fact that I need to compare my options and identify which source has better ETFs.

For example: I would like to compare IJR and SCHA. Both are US Small Cap Blends. Both can be acquired commission-free.

SCHA pros

• Lower expense ration (.08% vs .1712%)
• Higher MarketEdge power rating and score. (80, -1 vs. 40, -2)

**IJR pro