The MFA Definitive Boot Guide

In an effort to reduce the number of posts asking the same questions about the same boots three or nine times every day, I've compiled the MFA Definitive Boot Guide, using the brands I know something about. If you have info on brands I've left out, please add it to the comments. If you have contradictory opinions about brands I've included, especially if you think something I said sucks is actually good, you should come to terms with the fact that you're wrong.

The Fundamental Boot Laws are as follows:

  • Yes to: leather upper, classic styling
  • No to: square toe, pointy toe, fake distressing, metal bits
  • Outdoor/all purpose: rubber/Vibram sole
  • Indoor/dress: leather sole
  • If your grandfather wouldn't have worn them, neither should you

On to the brand list!

Red Wing, Chippewa and Wolverine are American workwear brands that have come back into the spotlight recently. They are well-made boots that will last a decade or more. Some lines carry price premiums (eg. the Red Wing Gentleman Traveler, or the Wolverine 1000 Miler) and some are relatively cheap (eg. the Chippewa 6"). They look great with everything up to and including a suit worn casually. You should probably buy boots from one of these manufacturers.

Sorel and LL Bean make "Bean Boots", designed to be worn in deep snow or hiking through forests in a blizzard or whatever. They're really well made and will last a decade. But they're charitably described as bad-looking. Some people are going apeshit over this aesthetic and that's fine, but personally I think if you're wearing them down 5th Avenue in a light drizzle, or worse in central Florida in October, you look like a fucking asshole. If you live in Maine, grab a pair. If you have to walk 100 yards from your car to your office in a half-inch of snow three times a year, definitely don't.

More specifically, LL Bean Katahdins are general all-purpose boots that look great and are a great value. They're also made by Chippewa, so they'll last. Avoid the "waterproof" version if you can—they're a little chunky.

Timberland, Caterpillar, etc. make relatively less expensive work boots that don't look very good but are pretty tough. If you're pouring concrete for a living, they're probably worth a look. If you're hanging out in MFA, you probably want to give them a pass.

RM Williams and Blundstone are quality Aussie bootmakers that are known for their Chelsea-style boots. RM Williams trends toward dressy, and Blundstone toward work boots. (via epikviking)

ALDO, Bed Stuy, Tsubo, Kenneth Cole and ECCO make Trash Fashion Boots, often of impossibly thin leather, and always designed to be worn for one season and then thrown away. They run counter to everything boots should be. Often they're marginally cheaper than other brands, but they're still ludicrously overpriced for what they are. There is absolutely no situation where buying one of these brands is advisable. There is no extenuating circumstance that makes it OK. "Should I buy these Aldo boots?" The answer is always and emphatically no. I'm putting this in bold and italics because everyone seems to ask: ALDO and Bed Stuy are shit boots; do not buy them.

Ted Baker, Cole Haan, Steve Madden and etc. make boots that are slightly better than Trash Fashion Boots, but not by much. If you find a great deal on a pair, and they don't violate the Fundamental Boot Laws, and you don't plan on keeping them for long, you could consider them. Definitely not worth full retail.

Anything branded Urban Outfitters is going to be knockoff trash that is miss-or-really-miss on quality, but probably not awful on style. Again, if you find a great deal, take a look, but don't drop over $100 for anything from these guys.

Merrel and Doc Martens are similar in that they make very eccentric boots that look awful on 95% of the people who wear them. Merrels just look plain awful and are questionably made; Doc Martens have a sordid history that you almost certainly don't fit into, and look chunky and affected, and unless they're made in England (which yours probably aren't) they're shittily manufactured. If you have to ask, don't buy these. In fact, let's just say don't buy these.

Uggs—you're a man; the answer is no.

Clarks and Frye are similar: good brands, that make good and comfortable boots. Unfortunately, about half of them are horrifically ugly. Tread carefully.

Specifically, the Clarks Desert Boot (or any crepe-soled, suede or light leather upper, chukka-style boot) is a decent looking spring/summer boot that is totally inappropriate below 45°F or in any kind of precipitation. That's it.

Alden and Florsheim make great dress (leather-soled) boots that look great with anything from jeans to a three-piece suit and, if properly cared for, will last a lifetime. Unfortunately, they're relatively difficult to care for, and quite expensive.

Trickers, Church's and Crockett & Jones are also very high quality dress boots, made in England. Same caveats apply as eg. Alden. (via shujin)

The Land's End Canvas 8-eye boot is a value dress boot alternative. Should be decently made and is reportedly comfortable, but the leather may not be top-notch. Personally I think it looks better than almost anything Alden or Florsheim make; YMMV.

Posted Dec 7, 2010, 10:41 AM UTC · edited

76133
[deleted]•

Interesting, but the moment you start making "rules", you discredit your post.

Ditto for the Timberlands point. This is your personal opinion, it is not "the definitive guide".

16
project2501a•

I would def let that point slide if ptrb would pre-ample his guide with "the bourgeois guide" instead of mfa

8
[deleted]•

No, because he's always right NO EXCEPTIONS.

5
ptrbOP•

the moment you start making "rules", you discredit your post.

If you're referring to The Fundamental Boot Laws, I'm not really sure what to say. They're inarguable. If you're referring to my summary of one of the brands, I refer you to my opening paragraph:

If you have contradictory opinions about brands I've included . . . you should come to terms with the fact that you're wrong.

-13
[deleted]•

They're inarguable

Ah. Well, although agree with them, consider this an argument against them. Hence, head assplode.

you're wrong.

I am actually never wrong. Back under your rock, you little knucklehead troll you.

Edit: Boots are for hairdressers and wannabe bikers.

0
fanten•

Good post, informative, and there seems to be a demand for boot-advice.

Personally I have these, Wolverine Mongomery, and even though they are a bit "military", I love them. Sturdy, look good and relatively warm. Only problem is that they don't really have the best grip on ice. Get some boots with natural rubber soles of some spikes if you spend a lot of time on glaciers.

8
epicviking•

Have you seen the landsend canvas boot in person? I really don't think the leather quality is there. idk. Good, but I dont know about comparable to Alden.

I'd add thorogood to the workboots category. Solid stuff, a little cheaper.

add chelseas (RM Williams/Blundstone) and we are good.

good guide overall.

7
ptrbOP•

Have you seen the landsend canvas boot in person?

I've seen it, but not handled it. I'll defer to your judgment on the quality and update accordingly.

add chelseas (RM Williams/Blundstone) and we are good.

What would you say about them?

3
epicviking•

Idk I saw one too and wasn't terribly impressed. Had the really unnatural creases you see on bad leather. seen way worse though,I'll give you that one.

Something about them being fairly simple and versatile. Blundstones are good workboots as well.

3
shujin•

They're not comparable to Alden but they're one of the better boots with a $150 price tag. Valet's review

1
soylentBrown•

Have you seen the landsend canvas boot in person?

i got a pair a few weeks ago during the 30% off sale for about $105. I think they look great, they're hella comfortable and true to size. Not sure how long they'll last me, but right now i'm very happy with them

1
epicviking•

oh no dont get me wrong, they are pretty good for 105. Saying they are comparable to Alden is stupid though.

1
concerned752•

Do you think those could work with a suit?

1
soylentBrown•

i'm planning on wearing 'em with a suit this saturday at my office christmas party. I think they'll work great.

1
[deleted]•

[deleted]

1
epicviking•

RM Williams makes some of the best. Chelseas are actually some of the most versatile boots a man can own.

2
jascination•

Hey man, fantastic guide. As someone who posts regularly in MFA/writes a lot of men's style articles/is a personal stylist, I can tell you first hand that anything like this will get ripped to shreds by guys tho think they know better. However, what you've done is give a lot of guys who would have known very little about boots a quick and easy guide to finding quality.

Also, side note, I saw my first pair of Wolverine 1000 Mile boots quite recently, and they're absolutely amazing. I've never seen a pair of boots with such high quality leather and construction, almost forked out the AU$450 but decided to hold off and buy some online from the States to save a bit of cash.

7
cakeod•

Absolutely agree about most of that advice. Particularly regarding pre-distressed, pointed-toed, bedazzled Eurotrash boots.

As with all things fashion, if your grandpa/Steve McQueen/James Dean wouldn't wear it, then you probably shouldn't either.

I'm kind of shocked by all the hate for Doc Martens though. I recently got my first pair of Doc's and I think they are great. Here are the ones I got. What does MFA think of them? Perhaps it is like you say though, and the ones that aren't made in England are crap. Those are pretty close to traditional work boots and the craftsmanship is outstanding. Is it just the connection to skinheads that turn people against Doc's? I mean, I think despite their unsavory political beliefs, skinheads overall had an aesthetic that was pretty easy on the eyes.

7
ptrbOP•

Doc Martens are basically bad, because

  • they're clunky—always a bad characteristic for a boot (mostly for this reason)
  • they often feature contrast stitching, which generally doesn't look good
  • their original history is... questionable, and extreme; you probably don't have any legitimate connection to that history as a 20-something American male
  • in American suburbia, they were (in my experience) co-opted in the 80's/90's by trashy pseudo-goths, which is yet another context you don't really want to associate yourself with
-1
cakeod•

I'll concede the first two points as being matters of opinion. The boots I bought aren't any clunkier than similar old-school work boot offerings from Red Wing or other heritage brands. Personally, I like contrast stitching on leather, particularly on retro-inspired designs.

I don't think the history of a particular item of clothing is really all that relevant to whether someone should be allowed to wear it today. Lots of 20 something American males wear vintage navy pea coats but most of us won't ever be loading 16" shells on a battleship. If it's a classic, timeless look, there's no reason why it shouldn't be emulated. That being said, I wouldn't suggest wearing Hugo Boss trenches and armbands no matter how good they might have looked on an SS officer.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that I'm wearing these boots in the sense that they might have been worn by the original early-60's, mod-inspired, apolitical skinhead subculture.

Honestly I would be much more worried to be associated with mall-goth culture than skinheads. However, I don't think mall-goths wore $200, handmade in the UK, relatively understated, 8-eye Doc Martens I chose. Instead they tend to wear cheap, exaggerated knee-high platform-soled monstrosities in black. I mean, you only have so much of a budget when you live in your mom's basement.

13
PandoRamma•

I've had a pair of Docs for years, and so long as you don't treat them like you're a trashy goth kid, they won't make you look like one. I'm sure I'll catch some hate for this, but once I got older and didn't like the yellow stitching, I colored over them with a sharpie. No one has noticed.

As for the clunk, yes, they are clunkly but I really don't mind a shoe that sounds like something more dangerous than a tap dancer when I walk into the room. It's really a matter of preference.

3
[deleted]•

Ok guys, I tried to stop myself but couldn't. I'm just going to say that the Chippewa 6"'s are damn ugly and I hope no one actually wears them. Not worth a link.

5
epicviking•

suggestions instead?

10
JrMint•

I disagree. I don't think they're bad looking but I would take off that American flag.

4
[deleted]•

I challenge you (or anyone) to find a photo of someone wearing these boots and looking good.

0
ptrbOP•

They're identical to the LL Bean Katahdins, except they don't have the cap toe, the lace studs are slightly different at the top, and they have the little American flag that of course everyone would just take off.

The good-looking-ness of the LL Bean Katahdins is legendary and not really up for debate. GIS against SuFu or StyleForum for a couple of good threads on them.

Ergo, the Chippewa 6" look good.

Game, set, match: ptrb.

1
[deleted]•

Let's see what people who bought the LLBK's describe themselves as:

I would describe myself as: hiker, camper

I would describe myself as: sailor, jeep Wrangler driver, shooting enthusiast, dog lover-mine is a Bassett hound

I would describe myself as: Outdoor active- former Field Construction professional 25+ years

That's OK. But I wouldn't go to these guys for fashion advice. I'm sure the boots are super comfy and but they still look like ass.

6
glorious_bastard•

Timberland makes the Earthkeeper line, which are semi-casual but nothing like the rest of their lineup, and I own a pair.

http://imgur.com/xqwM1.jpg

5
ptrbOP•

These are not semi-casual, they are 100% casual.

edit: To be more specific, the most objectionable part is probably the contrast stitching. I've never seen a boot where this has looked good. The superfluous loops on the rear, and doubled-up leather patches on the non-wear surfaces are also kindof pointless ornamentation.

3
pstanger•

Let's not forget the commando boot sole also.

1
glorious_bastard•

Cool - how's that working out for you?

I'm just saying they don't look like Timberlands other styles, in case you were generalizing the brand.

-1
Luke_in_Flames•

These sorta look like some sort of eighties techno-extrapolation of Docksiders, if Docksiders made tall boots. hmm.

1
glorious_bastard•

Mine have the colour matched stitching. Also, I can't tell if you are being positive or negative.

1
Luke_in_Flames•

i is gloriously liminal.

1
glorious_bastard•

well aren't you so specific

1
Kalium•

Call me evil, but I've taken to wearing a pair of Clark's Desert Boots daily. It helps that things don't seem to get much below 50 degrees here.

I like the way they look.

5
nibiyabi•

I just ordered a pair for this reason -- living in California seeing a daytime high below 50 is pretty rare, even in the winter. I think they should hold up just fine as long as I'm in the state.

1
CarlinT•

I don't own a pair of these, but I am curious. How warm are your feet kept during cooler weather (30-50*F)??? I'm guessing I can pull these off daily here in Houston also.

1
Kalium•

San Francisco. I'm not sure I can speak to what "cooler" weather is like with these, since I haven't run into anything I'd consider such. That said, they've handled everything well thus far.

1
pstanger•

I currently wear them in ~30-40 degree weather because I'm still waiting on other more appropriate shoes, but I'll vouch for my feet being pretty damn cold right now.

1
[deleted]•

I am interested to know where you live and what experience you base this off.

I have been trying to figure out what boots to get around these two known conditions: There is a lot of salt on the roads around here in the winter and I ride a bike all year (meaning I spend a lot of time hanging out in slushy snow, I need something warm enough and it needs to be flexible at the ankle).

Since this is the definitive guide more talk about lifestyle might help.

5
project2501a•

Since this is the definitive guide

it's not. it's def the campy guide to boots. but not definitive.

4
LinearExcept•

I'm having similar issues as you. I live in Canada so salt, slush and very cold temperatures are all considerations for boot buying. This guide does seem to be a bit more fashion oriented and a bit less applicable to harsher climates. I do want something that is wearable to work and somewhat fashionable, I guess it's a bit of a trade off. I still really don't know what I should get.

3
ptrbOP•

I'm sorry if this wasn't made clear. I mean, I think it was. Any one of the recommended work-style boots will handle any Canadian winter south of the 60th parallel.

0
[deleted]•

My experience in construction tells me that you need to be careful with workboots in cold temperatures, particularly as most CSA boots will have steel toes and shanks. These get reeeally cold so if you are going to wear workboots just for fun you are going to need to spend the extra money to get the ceramic ones.

In general though, outside a jobsite I wouldn't wear workboots in winter. You'll get your feet frozen off.

3
ptrbOP•

Nobody who doesn't explicitly need them should get steel (or ceramic, or whatever) -toed boots.

2
shujin•

Good guide, overall. Chelsea boot is a type of Jodhpur boot, which also deserves a mention (in addition to the elastic, some of them have a belt, but it's the same shape boot). I think George boots (monkstrap ankle boots) also deserve a mention. Unfortunately I haven't found any of the above in decent quality outside of Edward Green, Crocket & Jones, Alden or similarly expensive shoes. Concerning your mention of Alden, their indy boot gets a lot of positive press.

4
ptrbOP•

All good info. Upvote.

edit: I forgot C&J. What would you say about them?

4
shujin•

High quality shoes. Their normal line is around the quality of Alden. Their high-end line is similar in quality to John Lobb.

1
toiletcake•

Lately I've been seeing more classic hiking boots. Brown leather, red laces, triangle metal eyelets.

Thanks for the write-up BTW.

4
[deleted]•

native fitzsimmons are kinda big now (or a year ago). they're made with EVA and are based off of boots like those fracaps you linked. comes in all kinds of terrible colors and a couple decent ones. more of an urban/street-wear/hypebeast look.

personally, not a fan. the fact that the lacing pretty much starts at the toe is a major turnoff for me. brought it up though, for whatever its worth. another option to look at, very different from the other boots here.

3
ptrbOP•

Ah yeah, good tip. Personally, I find these to be amazing looking.

There are a lot of brands that put these out now. But because they're very popular and look very striking, you get a fair amount of shitty knock-offs. So you have to be careful.

The original manufacturers were this Italian boot maker whose name escapes me; they only supplied to their own store + like one shop in Japan until ~last year, when they started going international.

2
lordgold•

Red Wing > Alden?

Perhaps this should be qualified as the mfa definitive "work" boot thread. Then that might be true.

3
shujin•

Red Wing makes more of a "work boot". Alden is a dress shoe specialist, and their boots are more of a "dress boot". Shop accordingly.

3
[deleted]•

Haha, the Indy is definitely a work boot.

1
ptrbOP•

Leather sole = not a work boot.

They do make a work boot and it's probably high quality, but it's not particularly exciting.

0
[deleted]•

First of all, lots of work boots have a leather sole. This does not dictate a boot not being a work boot. For instance, Wolverine 1000 Mile. Do you not think that is a work boot? It is.

Second of all, this is the Indy and it most definitely does not have a leather sole.

Third, the boot you linked is an Indy boot with a lug sole.

2
ptrbOP•

Red Wing > Alden?

No, they serve different markets. I don't think I made any comparative statements between those brands. If you want dress boots, Alden is probably the best brand out there.

-1
rapeasaurus•

I'd recommend Cheaney in addition to that, just to add some variety.

Great intro guide.

1
nolcotin•

Just a note: If you live anywhere with real winter (hint... the temperature is below zero on both F and C), Vibram soles are like walking on ice. The Vibram, while incredibly durable, become like a lubricant in cold weather between your feet and the ground.

You would be better off in sneakers or leather bottom boots most of the time as their soles do not harden up.

3
ptrbOP•

Vibram gets stiff, but if it's well-made it will be textured to provide friction. That, combined with a decent amount of lugging, gives you traction on cold+dry as well as cold+wet and cold+icy. Leather soles may remain soft, but they lack both texture and lugging; any amount of water turns them into comedy slip-and-slide shoes, and has the added benefit of ruining them in short order.

-2
aipotsyd•

Where would the Wolverine 1000 Mile Originals sit on the Dress/Casual scale? They have the leather sole and look dressier to me, but just checking.

Edit: Nevermind, this should have summed it up I guess:

They look great with everything up to and including a suit worn casually.

3
ColTigh•

Very informative guide. Thanks.

3
[deleted]•

[deleted]

3
tdoggette•

I've got a pair of the canvas ones that I've been wearing around. They're hi-top canvas sneakers with thick soles. I like 'em.

I dunno what someone with fashion sense would say, though. The rubber toe makes them pretty casual.

1
Lightbulb9•

Yeah, im talking about them as casual boots.

1
tdoggette•

Well, if you want them, size down a bit, they run long.

1
Lightbulb9•

Thanks

1
Classiest•

I'm really glad at the new changes that I've seen on MFA as of lately. More varied discussion, informative posts, guides for the new guys.

Excellent work guys. Keep it going!

3
dr_do0m•

Sweet guide. I've got a few additions: Need to include White's Boots, Wesco, and Viberg in this list. These can be VERY expensive but quality is superior. Lots of choices because all three do custom orders. The standard lines are similar to what Red Wing/Chippewa offer. There's also Sugarcane Lone Wolf and The Real McCoy if you just so happen to be made of money.

3
JD42305•
2
ptrbOP•

Glad you like it, but sorry, the manufacturers you linked all make niche work boots that are mostly pretty ugly.

Those Real McCoys look quite nice, though.

-4
stereosaurus•

There are also a plethora of quality English bootmakers, including but not limited to Church's, Trickers, and Edward Green, who (with the exception of some Trickers) primarily lean toward proper dressiness.

On the complete opposite end of the spectrum are more avant garde designers such as Diet Butcher Slim Skin, Carol Christian Poell, and Ann Demeulemeester who all produce lovely boots season after season. I suppose these fall squarely in the "things my grandfather would never wear" category, but to dismiss them as such would be foolish.

(sadly everything listed here is $$$$ and well out of my current price range, but hopefully it's informative for some MFA'ers with a bit more scratch to spend on boots!)

3
Wednesdayayay•

Rule one wear only what you think will make you cool with the cool kiddies rule two. Win.

2